I don't want to go with the standard blue or green, so I am thinking of black with yellow or red scales and the spine on the back being redor black (so the opposite of the scales. Hopefully I will be able to get a concept model painted in the next few days. However I am lost as to how to paint the black without it looking flat.
As far as the black goes, simply start off with a full black coat and then slowly mix in some gray (shadow, codex, etc.) in every highlight. This should be done where the body wrinkles or breaks, such as on the breastplate scales. You can go over these initial highlights with a black wash in order to have the darker areas stand out more from the highlighted areas. After this, a layer of matte varnish should cause the highlighted and inked areas to appear continuous, so that you achieve a black that does not mute out the details. P.S. please go over your post before you put it up, it doesn't take very long to do, but makes it a lot easier to read.
Looks good for a test model. I would suggest brightening the colors using basecoats or multiple layers so that there is more of a contrast between the scales and body. Also, it might be a good idea to use a woodgrain or mottled stone on the stock of his weapon, as the weapon should not melt into the rest of the body.
Thanks for the feedback. I needed some idea for the handle of the weapon, but didn't know what to do. I think I will use browns to try to make it look leather bound. With the scales I worked up from Iyanden darksun to golden yellow. however the yellow is (like all GW yellows) very water and seeped into the cracks between the scales, So I used a very watered down chaos black to bring thecracks. Though it does dull the scales. I amgoing to try using the Devlan mud wash next time, since it seems to keep in the cracks and off the surfaces.
Turns out that Devla mud does sink better than washed down chaos black. So here is my final concept for my Saurus.
My only suggestion is that you might want to brighten the Yellow and Red a bit, as right now the contrast between the Primaries and the Black come off as rather dull.' Beyond this, I was wondering if you had considered using a non-metallic metals approach.
The others will try to be brighter, with the reds and yellows, I am also trying to get some orange in the shield. How do you do non metallic metals?
A good brief description of NMM (non-metallic metals) can be found here, along with many other painterly terms http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Figure_painting_(hobby)#Non-metallic_metals_.28NMMs.29 for more specifics on the theory of and how to achieve NMM, visit these painting guides http://www.warhammer-empire.com/workshop/nmm-pire.php http://www.blackmoor.ca/articlesnmm.htm If done correctly, NMM give you a much cleaner, brighter metal appearance. This is especially useful as the gold paint sold by GW is of very poor quality (flecky and of varying tone and texture).
Thanks for the links to NNMs. I might give them a shot. Next up is myconcept for Cold ones. I am a bit worried about the angle of the head. It looks like it has failed its stupidity test and is chasing butterflies. not a good thing for my Scar vets mount.
Well I have taken ShCahtoa's advice and have tried my hand at NMM. Why the cutting edge o the weapon is gold I have no idea. Maybe the Saurus plans on using brute strength rather than a blade after the first few hits.
I like what I see, good colour selection, but on the saurus you need to highlight up the edges of the scales to a brighter yellow but leave the middles darker. That will really improve it I think.
agressive color scheme for lizzies i think cool still and the cold one has matters to think over thats why it looks so "away"