1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Concept for my army

Discussion in 'Painting and Converting' started by Ragnarok, Jun 22, 2008.

  1. Ragnarok
    Skink

    Ragnarok New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I don't want to go with the standard blue or green, so I am thinking of black with yellow or red scales and the spine on the back being redor black (so the opposite of the scales.

    Hopefully I will be able to get a concept model painted in the next few days.

    However I am lost as to how to paint the black without it looking flat.
     
  2. SohCahToa
    Kroxigor

    SohCahToa New Member

    Messages:
    302
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    As far as the black goes, simply start off with a full black coat and then slowly mix in some gray (shadow, codex, etc.) in every highlight. This should be done where the body wrinkles or breaks, such as on the breastplate scales. You can go over these initial highlights with a black wash in order to have the darker areas stand out more from the highlighted areas. After this, a layer of matte varnish should cause the highlighted and inked areas to appear continuous, so that you achieve a black that does not mute out the details.

    P.S. please go over your post before you put it up, it doesn't take very long to do, but makes it a lot easier to read.
     
  3. Ragnarok
    Skink

    Ragnarok New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Thanks for the advice.

    Here is my first concept Saurus.

    saurus1.jpg

    saurus2.jpg

    saurus3.jpg
     
  4. SohCahToa
    Kroxigor

    SohCahToa New Member

    Messages:
    302
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Looks good for a test model. I would suggest brightening the colors using basecoats or multiple layers so that there is more of a contrast between the scales and body. Also, it might be a good idea to use a woodgrain or mottled stone on the stock of his weapon, as the weapon should not melt into the rest of the body.
     
  5. Ragnarok
    Skink

    Ragnarok New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Thanks for the feedback.

    I needed some idea for the handle of the weapon, but didn't know what to do. I think I will use browns to try to make it look leather bound.

    With the scales I worked up from Iyanden darksun to golden yellow. however the yellow is (like all GW yellows) very water and seeped into the cracks between the scales, So I used a very watered down chaos black to bring thecracks. Though it does dull the scales.

    I amgoing to try using the Devlan mud wash next time, since it seems to keep in the cracks and off the surfaces.
     
  6. Ragnarok
    Skink

    Ragnarok New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Turns out that Devla mud does sink better than washed down chaos black.

    So here is my final concept for my Saurus.

    saurus4.jpg

    saurus5.jpg
     
  7. SohCahToa
    Kroxigor

    SohCahToa New Member

    Messages:
    302
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    My only suggestion is that you might want to brighten the Yellow and Red a bit, as right now the contrast between the Primaries and the Black come off as rather dull.'

    Beyond this, I was wondering if you had considered using a non-metallic metals approach.
     
  8. Ragnarok
    Skink

    Ragnarok New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    The others will try to be brighter, with the reds and yellows, I am also trying to get some orange in the shield.

    How do you do non metallic metals?
     
  9. SohCahToa
    Kroxigor

    SohCahToa New Member

    Messages:
    302
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    A good brief description of NMM (non-metallic metals) can be found here, along with many other painterly terms

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Figure_painting_(hobby)#Non-metallic_metals_.28NMMs.29

    for more specifics on the theory of and how to achieve NMM, visit these painting guides

    http://www.warhammer-empire.com/workshop/nmm-pire.php
    http://www.blackmoor.ca/articlesnmm.htm

    If done correctly, NMM give you a much cleaner, brighter metal appearance. This is especially useful as the gold paint sold by GW is of very poor quality (flecky and of varying tone and texture).
     
  10. Ragnarok
    Skink

    Ragnarok New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Thanks for the links to NNMs. I might give them a shot.

    Next up is myconcept for Cold ones.

    coldone1.jpg

    coldone2.jpg

    coldone3.jpg

    I am a bit worried about the angle of the head. It looks like it has failed its stupidity test and is chasing butterflies. not a good thing for my Scar vets mount.
     
  11. Ragnarok
    Skink

    Ragnarok New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Well I have taken ShCahtoa's advice and have tried my hand at NMM. Why the cutting edge o the weapon is gold I have no idea. Maybe the Saurus plans on using brute strength rather than a blade after the first few hits. :D

    JSoD1.jpg


    JSoD2.jpg
     
  12. Apollo3
    Skink

    Apollo3 New Member

    Messages:
    38
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I like what I see, good colour selection, but on the saurus you need to highlight up the edges of the scales to a brighter yellow but leave the middles darker. That will really improve it I think.
     
  13. azeralk
    Skink

    azeralk New Member

    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    agressive color scheme for lizzies i think cool still and the cold one has matters to think over thats why it looks so "away" :smug:
     

Share This Page