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Help Painting Metal Minis

Discussion in 'Painting and Converting' started by Lizerd, Jun 26, 2021.

  1. Lizerd
    Skink Priest

    Lizerd Well-Known Member

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    A quick score online landed me some stuff, and notably a vintage metal carnosaur (poggers). However this comes with a problem, I've never painted metal minis. Questions are:

    1. What prep work do I need to do on a metal mini? is it easy like plastic or do you have to preform more elaborate action like with resin?
    2. After painting, do I need a clear coat to make sure paint doesn't chip?

    As for the carnosaur this is the model, probably will require some pinning and super glue
    Screenshot (1096).png
     
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  2. ASSASSIN_NR_1
    Carnasaur

    ASSASSIN_NR_1 Well-Known Member

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    1. A standard basecoat is fine. If you want to, the paint is easier to strip from a metal mini.
    2. You absolutely must apply a clear coat to prevent chipping.

    The tail on the carnosaur, at least in my case, was a bit tricky with large gaps, so keep than in mind.
    Also the legs were not on the same plane, so it could not stand perfectly, hopefully you've got a better specimen, but it's something to look out for.
     
  3. Lizerd
    Skink Priest

    Lizerd Well-Known Member

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    Damn metal models also get warped? Fingers crossed then

    also good to know on the clear coat, i should have enough of it to cover the carno when its done
     
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  4. ASSASSIN_NR_1
    Carnasaur

    ASSASSIN_NR_1 Well-Known Member

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    I Don't think it's so much that they are warped, as it is the molds not always being as well made as you would hope - at least that's my take on it
     
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  5. Christopher
    Terradon

    Christopher Well-Known Member

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    Building a metal Pentinent Engine from 40K is by far the hardest thing I've done in this hobby.
     
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  6. Tyranitar
    Terradon

    Tyranitar Well-Known Member

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    You can paint as you normally would. I'd def recommend pinning the larger pieces otherwise they'll break under their own weight easier, likely just the tail in this case, and maybe pin kroq-gar to the carnosaur. As mentioned, a clear coat is necessary, might not hurt to do several through the paint job. Or at least one after priming and one at the end. Lastly, be extra careful not to drop it onto your plastic minis, it will annihilate everything it touches lol
     
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  7. Warden
    Slann

    Warden Tenth Spawning

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    +1 to this. Even with a clear coat they might still chip after a few years of tabletop use.

    I would also recommend pinning in locations where just glue won't hold the model together thanks to the weight of the metal parts. I would not be shocked if you had to do a little pinning in the leg/tail.
     
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  8. Noxolotl
    Cold One

    Noxolotl Well-Known Member

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    I would also maby suggest using epoxy glue for the larger parts of the model. Don't use too much though, as cleaning the spills is not fun.
     
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  9. The Red Devil
    Stegadon

    The Red Devil Defender of Hexoatl Staff Member

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    I strongly agree, I always use a two-component epoxy together with pinning on metal models. If you do this they will never break apart again, while if you just pin and use superglue they have a tendency to break apart if dropped.
     
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  10. Lizerd
    Skink Priest

    Lizerd Well-Known Member

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    How toxic is epoxy glue? I could look into getting some since you guys are speaking so highly of it
     
  11. Noxolotl
    Cold One

    Noxolotl Well-Known Member

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    As long as you don't drink it, set it on fire and inhale the fumes from it, everything should be fine.

    But if we talking safety when using it, i would recommend wearing cheap rubber gloves and mixing it in a small container that can be thrown away. I also suggest applying it with something thin to avoit it leaking from the model.
     
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  12. The Red Devil
    Stegadon

    The Red Devil Defender of Hexoatl Staff Member

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    As mentioned it is as toxic as most glues we use for the hobby.

    I would recommend getting the epoxy that is ready in a syringe-type of packaging where you just press and get the required amount of each part.
    When doing a model, you only need a tiny bit, so this type of packaging will last longer than the ones with separate tubes.

    Here is a picture of the type I mean.
    https://hanghoiknifemaking.com/images/21005-p.jpg

    Edit:
    There are also different types of epoxy types, for use with the hobby, I would recommend getting one that cures in 5-15min all depending on how fast you normally work.
     
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