Ok, so can someone tell me why they make 20-piece pewter pieces with no instructions, yet my freaking SKINKS came with instructions. If I put one thing on, I can't put a head on. I put the head on, I cant put the arms on. How is this supposed to be assembled? Using 4 hands simultaneously? I HATE assembling. that is the worst part of this hobby for me. I like to paint and play, that's it. Assembling is just a taste of how freaking CHEAP a company can be. It comes in 20 pieces to give you a false sense of customization. It comes with 2 hands, and 2 feet. How is that customization? I understand there are people that enjoy this aspect of the game, fine. But I don't think it's necessary to have a friggin 20 piece saurus hero. I would pay an extra $10 to have these come assembled in a box. Oh yeah, that's right... I DID pay an extra $10 for it to come assembled. And it's STILL in 10 pieces because none of the pieces fit and when you leave them sitting on a table, they start crumbling down. OOOOOOOOH, RIIIIGHT! Games workshop also sells equipment to bolt things together. So why should pieces fit? You should go out and buy their freaking bolt kit. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHH!!!!! /rant. Ok now to be more coherent. Anyone have tips on how to assemble Chakax? I feel like if I put his arm on, I'm guessing the angle, and he's got that 2 handed dealie? I put it on, and I realize that when I put the other arm on, his hand is detached. I dunno, this seriously makes me not want to play. And it's upsetting. Like, my army simply CAN'T include terradon riders, cuz the wings keep falling off every time I use them. Thanks to all who listened. And to any who can provide advice.
I'm still waiting for mine so no help... but I know a *little* about the industry/model making business from third parties. Basically, the more pieces, the more pose ability. The way the metals are (generally) spin cast, there are certain shapes and angles that work out better. You can't have Chakax posed like he is now in one piece. Just can't happen with the way the process works. If you get single piece miniatures (think a lot of Reaper Miniature's single, no assembly miniatures) they tend to be in "X" shaped poses. Something about the way the process works. So more pieces is more poss ability and more detail options. Could/should they include directions for assembly? I think so! Now, I might eat my words once my Chakax gets in, but you never know! Hope that helps a little on the industry side of it...
I understand what you're saying. I dunno, it drove me nuts before. The model seems pretty simple, I'm just not that good at it, I guess.
One thing I do that seems to help with the glueing: Once the glue has time to dry, I glue a second time. I usually only glue twice for plastic models, but with metal, I usually glue +3 times (Until the gaps are mostly full. Just be careful not to over glue things, if its outside the seams/cracks, youve used too much glue. I had the same problem with my early models wanting to fall apart (The metal ones anyway), once I started glueing more than once I stopped having the problem. Hope that helps.
I just finished assembling mine about an hour ago, and I ran into the same problem, well, that and not having the extra arm to be able to put his arms on without fumbling glue all over myself. His...I'll call it earring for lack of a more coherent name, that hangs down from his left side will not fit right due to his weapon. I took a pair of needle nose pliers(my multi-tool is quickly becoming my new best friend)and gently bent it forward, that way it's out of the way of the weapon. Once I did that the model fit together just fine. It's better than my original idea, which was to clip that bit off. I'm glad I let level heads prevail because the bend is only noticeable because I know what to look for, and it would have looked funny if it was clipped off. So yeah, bend that bit forward and it should fit just fine.
Metal models are always a pain, and maybe they should include instructions with blisters. Most boxes have instructions, it is just the blisters that are lacking. Most of them are fairly obvious to stick together, but some it can be a bit ticky figuring out what goes where. Keep in mind that pieces always bend a bit. If they aren't bent when you get them, there is still a good chance they will bend when you are clipping the flash and crap off. About all you can do is try a few dry runs, and yes you will probably need to put two pices on at once. I don't have that specific model but I have done a lot of tricky metal models. If you get some gree stuff and put it between the pieces, just a very very tiny amount, it will help hold the model together while the glue is drying, makes things a hell of a lot easier. Keep in mind though that you still need some metal/metal contact or the bond will be very weak. I usually put a small ring around the edge of one piece, this not only helps hold it but provides the foundation for gap filling straight away. A little bit of work with a pin or blade and that is usually all the GS work I need to do. With bigger pieces, definitely pin them. Due to the weight of the models, they are a lot more prone to breaking than plastic, plus the glue doesn't actually bond with the metal like with plastic, so the join isn't as strong. Even small drops and they will break, which is very disappointing because you need to get rid of all the dry glue before gluing again and it can ruin paint jobs. It does sound like you haven't done metal models before, another thing you will no doubt encounter is paint chipping or not sticking. I thoroughly recommend giving the model a bit of a soack and wash in warm, soapy water. This removes some of the lubricant from the molding process that paint doesn't stick to. Also can make gluing a bit easier. It is the first thing I do with metal models when I open them up. Good luck.
Pinning is almost a must now with the new models, just glue works fine for a showpiece but on tabletop models I have found it just is not enough. If you are having hands issues they make weighted bases with adjustable arms and alligator clips to hold and position models for you.
I recently finished assembling the new Kroxigor model, and it seemed like it shouldn't have been a problem, but I think that with metal models you really jut have to be patient and leave them in place overnight. Just glue each piece separately and wait a few hours. That being said, the new krox looks awesome.
same problem with the tails of the razordons. they are awfull. had to flip them balance them out with my alligator clips and then gleu the tail on. ( leaving the tail pointing up) and leave it like a few hours before moving to the next razordon. a little dot of greenstuff and gleu works good to. the greenstuff helps it stay on while the gleu dries up.
well put a little bit greenstuff to hold the 2 parts in plave when the gleu dries up. then you don't have to balance you mini and get your fingers full of gleu.