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how to paint terradons

R
Skink

robob90

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Hi everyone!

I love LM because I can paint their skin as I prefer!
Now I'm going to buy my first 3 terradons. I want to ask you which colour scheme you've used.
My saurus are dark blue with the plaque light blue and my skinks are green with the plaque yellow.

I find the GW terradons colour scheme quite sad...so I was thinking at a combination of light blue and emerald for example (avatar style O.o).

How did you colour them??
 
One of the reasons I chose Lizardmen was the options you could paint them. Ah, freedom! And I'm also wrestling with the problem of how to paint Terradons. At the momen, I'm thinking of dark red for the lizard itself and then bone white for those leather flaps on the wings.
 
Dark red?? mmm...nice idea...I was thinking to paint cold ones with dark red!! I'll try one light blue and one dark red!!!let's see! ;)
 
Yeah, Cold Ones can look awesome in dark red! Oh, be sure to post pictures after you are done, so that we can see 'em too!
 
Actually....I don't know how to post images!!!XD I'll try to discover it so I can post saurus, skinks e slanns pictures! :)
 
You just need to upload them somewhere and use "pic" tags. so . I use imageshack to upload my pics, you just need to create a free account to start some albums.
 
I use Photobucket. It has a nice feature that allows you to copy the direct link to your picture with one click. Then just come here, click Img button above the text box for you reply and paste the link. Voilá!
 
It's photobucket for me as well.
 
Caprasauridae said:
I use Photobucket. It has a nice feature that allows you to copy the direct link to your picture with one click. Then just come here, click Img button above the text box for you reply and paste the link. Voilá!
Click to expand...
imageshack is a bit behind that, it gives you a direct link and you have to manually copy it :D Though it's still useful if you have a few pictures you want to post, just add them to 1 album and it'll list all the direct links in a single text box so a single copy/paste will grab all the direct links for you, but I don't think there's much difference either way ;)
 
Yeah, that doesn't sound too hard, either :D But on some of the other forums people recommended Photobucket for me saying that Imageshack has adware and other stuff. Don't know about it much, though.
 
Interesting, I googled imageshack and adware and some people saying to avoid imageshack claiming to have adware and popups through imageshack, however I have posted a couple of hundred images through it on various forums and have never had a problem with adware or popups or anything of the sort. It's always been quite quick to upload, quick to download, no undue ads or pop ups or anything of the sort. I know imageshack gives the option of a thumbnail and if you use the thumbnail it links to an imageshack page with the image and some ads, but I never use that and always use direct links to post the images in the thread itself rather than a thumbnail linking to elsewhere.

I do have a photobucket account as well but its been so long since I've used it I've forgotten the password, the user name and which email account it was linked to :P
 
well, terradons arrived!!!
...I don't like finecast...they're beautiful ok,but they seem to be too fragile...

however I'll try both imageshack and photobucket!!
 
I'm quite worried about the fragility of it, too, specifically on terradons. Is that unfounded? The spear shafts and terradon tails in particular have me worried.
 
Personally I'd be most worried about casting flaws. The resin feels delicate, but the models similar weight if not slightly lighter than plastic so dropping them means there's very little force on the model and I personally like that rather than the heft of metal models (especially ones mounted on flying bases and are a bit naturally unbalanced).

But the biggest disappointment for me with finecast has been the casting flaws. Most recently I bought a Broodlord for Tyranids and I looked at it in the box and it looked fine, but then when I got it home and opened it I saw the model's heel was missing and many of the claws had bubbles right on the tip of the claw, so instead of being sharp they were blunt. Also it was covered in tiny bubbles all over the model, which aren't too hard to fill but are just a pain in the rear, you end up wasting an hour filling holes and if they're on parts of the model that are supposed to be smooth it can take a bit of time to fill the hole and sand it back to smooth. Also one of the model's "toes" was crooked and there was really no way to straighten it without damaging the model. Because the toe is short and close to the other toes it just wouldn't bend back with any reasonably amount of force and I didn't want to accidentally snap the whole leg off (I did try heating it up and no luck).

I like the detail and light weight of finecast models, but it's all for naught if the model is missing chunks when you first open it!
 
Now, after I have assembled and painted several metal and Finecast models, I'm a bit more against Finecast than I was before. I love how easy they are to assemble compared to metallic ones, but in my experience they don't like to be bend almost at all and they lose paint easier than plastic ones if they are not properly protected by washes and varnishes. The models I have bought haven't had that bad casting flaws either.
 
That's interesting, I haven't had those sorts of problems with finecast. It certainly doesn't bend as much as metal or plastic, but I found it bends enough so that the models don't get damaged. One tricky thing with finecast is when you're bending it, it doesn't give you any warning that it's about to snap, where plastic and metal I tend to be able to bend them right to the limit of snapping, finecast you'll be bending it and then all of a sudden with very little warning it'll just break. Because of that, if I want to intentionally bend finecast I'll always do it when the model is warmed up and more supple. One of the guys at my hobby shop proved just how much it can bend by reposing a Hive Tyrant purely by bending it (all while the model was heated up).

With the paint sticking to the model, that's weird, do you prime your models? With spray or by hand? I've personally found finecast to be very adhesive to paint, where plastic has a very low surface energy so paint tends to bead off it, and metal is, well, metal, so paint chips easily, I've found paint spreads really easily over finecast even when it's bare (though I typically spray prime all my models anyway) and haven't had any issues with scratching or chipping (but that said, I'm very careful with all my minis be they plastic, metal or resin, I'm always careful to make sure that aren't handled in a way which would result in chipping).

But yeah, casting flaws have been my main hatred of finecast. Maybe I should start mail ordering it, coz all the stuff in my local games shop has lots of bubbles which you can see even before you open it. It's stopped me buying Arjac Rockfist or any Tyrant Guard, I couldn't actually find any in the shop that didn't have casting flaws that I'm too lazy to fix.
 
The problems with the breaking of the Finecast have happened with small parts, like spears and blades, I haven't really tried to repose anything larger. Did you use a hair-dryer to heat the models or something fancier?

And yeah, I'm quite careful with my models too after I have finished them. The thing I was referencing to was about the chipping of white spray primer and/or base coating when they have been lying around in a box where they could move around when lifted and put down again, for couple of months. But that hasn't happened with metal or plastic ones, even though they were in the very same box... But yeah, maybe that was just a strike of bad luck. And I know, I should paint them and not let them lie around, but I'm a bit ADHD in that way I move on to the next model when there's still work to do with the previous one...

Oh, and like I said, I haven't had any major troubles with casting flaws, but what I have read from the forums is that many get frustrated on the flaws and stop ordering from internet, because it's such a hassle to send them back, and buy them from the local stores instead. But yeah, if your local shops don't have any proper kits, then you don't have much choice...
 
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