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Blog Aginor's Painting Blog

Thanks!
Doing it that way is a LOT of work though. I think there are more than 15 hours of work in the paint of the howdah alone. At times I felt as if I wasn't progressing at all.

If I ever build another Stegadon I will not make it that variable/complex I think.

Oh and btw: Magnet count on the model if you count all variants: 56 at the moment. Might be 60 or so in the end.
 
Ok, as promised I am going to put pictures of my models here, including some information about them as far as I am still able to remember it. :D

I'll start with the very first model I ever painted. I made it in October or November 2016, and it is a Skink Starpriest.
EDIT: I was curious, most people probably don't know the exact date when they started the hobby, building their first model. I do! It was October 14th, 2016. :)

View attachment 28575
View attachment 28576

Notes:
- I didn't know about bases so I chose the one that looked cooler. One day I will probably re-base him on a round base because all my other models have round bases. For now he stays on that one though.
- Originally I wanted to paint those feathers yellow and give them red tips. But I had him primed black and the yellow on top of black created that weird green effect. I liked it so he stayed that way. I even did the same effect on others of my models.
- I knew next to nothing about drybrushing back then but tried on the scales anyway. It kind of succeeded.
- The glowing eyes weren't made on purpose, but I like how they look.
- I am a bit proud of that dagger. It was painted silver and then shaded blue.
- Imo the silver finger nails make it look more magical.
- I was pretty happy with that weathered stone look of those stairs, so I did almost all of my stones with the same technique since then. This one just has more brown than most.

This is your FIRST model ever painted ?? This is really beautiful ! Oh man, you should have seen mine ! *will post a pic at some point that I ll create my personal paint blog !*
 
Not long ago (At the beginning of February 2017) I converted that Saurus Knight Alpha.

I broke off his arms, bored 2mm diameter holes in the shoulders and arms, and placed neodymium magnets in there.
Using some spare parts from the sprues I created a nice shiny Celestite War Pick, and since I had gotten another starterbox in January I had a spare big shield from the Scar Vet on Carnosaur. So I gave him those, thus converting him into a Scar Veteran on Cold one, with the option to just swap out the weapon and shield and make him a Saurus Knight Alpha again.

The feathers on the customized War Pick were done using a technique I learned when painting my Skink Priest in January. I did not know it is actually pretty easy to do those color gradients using a brush. I always thought those were possible only with an airbrush.

The yellow ball is done using a GW glaze called Lamenters Yellow. Paint it white, add some of that glaze, nice effect.

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This is amazing ! May I ask how hard did you find to magnetize it as an inexperienced person with magnetizing? I have NEVER tried it myself but I wanna do it in order to have more options. Any tips ? Is there a place you 'd propose me to study for it?
 
Thanks! But I am not very confident concerning my painting, I have never been good at painting (or tried painting during the last 20 years for that matter) and I know it can be done much better because I see those great models on the Internet every day.
Now, a few months after making the above models I am fairly sure even I can do it better, and then I think "Why post something on the web I am not really convinced of myself? Better wait and see if I can do a really good one".
But y'all helped me so much already, I feel I owe you some pics even though those models aren't perfect. :)


Ok, back to November 2016. The Knights were done, so it was time to do the Behemoth from the starter box, my first big model.
I was pretty nervous since I really wanted to do it well and feared I might fail. The longer I painted the more confident I got, even though many many things did not go, or end up, as expected.

Here is my Troglodon:
View attachment 28587 View attachment 28588 View attachment 28589

Notes:
- The paint scheme is based on pictures of adult Green Iguanas. They often have orange feet and spikes, and a bright face. I didn't like the Troglodon paint scheme like GW did it on the shop's pics, so I thought REALLY long about this and tested paints on empty sprues.
- The whole beast was painted white (it was the first model I used a white spray primer on), and all the green parts are just shaded and drybrushed. No direct painting. Where the paint was a bit too strong I drybrushed with white.
- I discovered that shades on metal colors make metallic paint effects. You can see it on the reigns.
- The Oracle was done using the same techniques as for the Starpriest, since I wanted him to look similar
- Two of those rocks on the base are actual stones, the other two are cork bungs from wine bottles, I wanted to test whether it is possible to shape halfway believable rocks that way. It works.
- I already broke off the tip of the tongue twice. One I glued it on again, the other time I just covered it up with paint so it isn't that noticable anymore. Next time I break it off I will maybe replace the tongue with the spare one from my other kit. I also considered attaching it using a magnet, that will probably help.
- I broke off the flag thing on top, and since I knew I would hit it again I didn't glue it back on but used two of my tiny magnets. That way if I touch it it doesn't break but move out of the way. I love those neodymium magnets. :)
- Overall I like the Troglodon very much, but it is a really fragile model. I don't even know how I would transport it in one of those GW or Feldherr foam storage boxes. It has thin antennas and stuff sticking out in every direction! I transport it standing upright in a shoe box, filled with paper towels.
- I also made a mistake that cost me some time to correct. I glued the neck ring on before painting. Afterwards I spent an hour trying to paint the visible parts on the inside.

The color scheme is awesome. You even used shades instead of simple paints and besides the awesome result it took you less time. I feel bad about myself right now :p
 
This is amazing ! May I ask how hard did you find to magnetize it as an inexperienced person with magnetizing? I have NEVER tried it myself but I wanna do it in order to have more options. Any tips ? Is there a place you 'd propose me to study for it?
I'll write a short report about my experiences with that soon. IMO it isn't that hard once you know a few things. I had great luck, a few guys in my local GW shop told me a few of those things and I found out a fee myself before I caused major damage. :D
 
One item left on my wishlist in December was a Skink Priest.
Not that I needed him urgently, I just liked the model.
So I got one for my birthday. I painted it soon thereafter. Here it is:


View attachment 29024
View attachment 29025

Notes:
- I really really wanted to make that one good. I had seen pictures on the net and liked those feathers, I just feared I wouldn't make it.
- I was surprised he really only consisted of one part. "Easy" I thought, but then I saw all that casting flash. OMG.... It took me hours to clean up that model.
- First I primed him white. I used the yellow glaze for the staff, the skin was painted with Temple Guard Blue and then shaded blue.
For the cloak I just painted everything yellow (except the inside which is just red) and then I worked from the edges, carefully drybrushing towards the middle. First I only had the green but then I thought I'd try and do the same with orange. I am glad I did it. Those color contrasts are very nice IMO, and it really looks like a rather soft gradient. I thought that was almost impossible using a brush (I was told it is pretty easy with an airbrush though) but when I managed to get it done it really gave me hope for my painting. With some more practice I might really produce some nice models.
- there is a tiny amount of green drybrush highlighting on the skin. The idea was to make it look as if that yellow orb glows and shines on the skin. It makes for a good highlight I think.
- I carefully shaded the deeper crevices dark. Those resin models don't have all the holes like the plastic ones so I thought I had to hide those parts where the parts meet.
- I am proud of that model. Of course I see a few spots that could be made better. The eyes and teeth are far from perfect for example, and there are a few tiny holes in which there is no paint. I am still very happy with it, because most of the time my models look quite different to what I had in mind when I started painting. Not necessarily bad, but different. This one looks almost exactly as the picture that I had in mind when I started. And that makes me really happy. When I was finished I was excited and showed it to everyone who was interested, and some who weren't.

Brilliant ! May I ask how do your colors become so bright ?? Or is it just the quality of Army Painter that I 've never tried so far??
 
I think there are two main factors to that.
One is light. Under normal light those don't look quite as bright, the light box does a good job there.
The other is the colors. For the stuff I want really bright I do the following:
- prime white, and if it was already primed, then add a white coat. It should be thick enough to cover so that you cannot tell the color below it anymore. If necessary do two coats. The Army Painter white is pretty good, but I think GW's Praxon White would do the job just as fine.
- paint your light color, like light green or yellow.
- be careful with your shades. Thin them if necessary.
- optionally do some drybrushing in a similar light color

I mostly use white primer now. For dark colors black is as fine, but I find it easier to work from bright to dark than vice versa.
 
I mostly use white primer now. For dark colors black is as fine, but I find it easier to work from bright to dark than vice versa.
I always prime black; I find it more forgiving. I once primed white and it was a disaster! I don't think I have the adequate level of skill required to pull off white priming. However, many of the best painters I've spoken to use almost exclusively white primer.
 
I always prime black; I find it more forgiving. I once primed white and it was a disaster! I don't think I have the adequate level of skill required to pull off white priming. However, many of the best painters I've spoken to use almost exclusively white primer.

I bought a can of Corax White (GW White Primer), shook it for a couple minutes, wasn't humid or hot weather, treated it just like my black primers -- ended up going on chalky and with a texture. I know there are other primer brands and options, but that one experience made me "ruin" a Ghostkeel -- I painted over it, but it still kept that grainy/sandy/chalky texture. Won't be going back to white primer anytime soon unfortunately.

I've been using black primer (either GW's or rustoleum) and been happy, but thought about trying a Grey primer but haven't gotten around to it yet.
 
I bought a can of Corax White (GW White Primer), shook it for a couple minutes, wasn't humid or hot weather, treated it just like my black primers -- ended up going on chalky and with a texture.
That really sucks; it must have been extremely frustrating. I've been lucky in that regard, never really suffered from that issue as of yet (knock on wood).

I've been using black primer (either GW's or rustoleum) and been happy
I've switched over to Army Painter black primer and I've been tremendously pleased with it.

but thought about trying a Grey primer but haven't gotten around to it yet.
I've been thinking of using some sort of combination of primers (black, grey, white) via my airbrush (which I have yet to use).
 
I'm legit so jealous of the progress you've made in such a short time. Im sure in another year your models will look ten times as good as any of mine judging from how fast youre learning and improving. Seems like you've found a style for yourself as well, sortve leaning towards bold, deep colours with massive contrast. I can't wait to see the steg all done and magnetized too, still can't get over how many damn magnets went into the one kit tho lol

Colours/10
 
Many thanks!
The things I found out about painting:

In the early days I did something wrong (well, wrong for me, it might be fine for others). I just took the brush and paint and started to do something. A talented person can do a lot that way I think. My problem with that is that I am not very artistically talented. My results in arts were always quite bad. Bad or at best mediocre grades in school when something had to be painted.
I even remember this one incident when I brought another painting home from school which, yeah, sucked I guess. I don't remember the painting but I remember my mother shrugging and saying "well, you've never been good at painting".
Then I developed a tremor in my hands (actually my hands are fine, it is my thumbs that quiver. No problem with that, the only thing it affects is when I must precisely handle small things - or draw/paint something) and I guess that sealed it.
At some point I just accepted it and didn't draw or paint something again (except technical stuff using rulers and so on).

It wasn't a major problem either, because my strengths are with logic, handling computers and all that stuff.

Years went by. I went studying and discovered stuff like vector graphics on the PC. I was intrigued because it didn't matter that I lacked precision, I could just zoom in further and the PC smoothened the lines, it also allowed me to just erase or correct single lines or colors many times to make them look good.
I made some interesting stuff that way, like Logos and T-shirts and website stuff. There was still something missing though. I noticed I can draw something using a PC if I had a decent picture of it right in front of me or a place to start from, like an existing picture to manipulate. But I am still not a person that you tell to draw a bird and then they create something from their mind. Even on a PC I can only draw XKCD style stuff without at least a template.

But I noticed one important thing during that time: there are aspects of painting (and arts in general) that are just knowledge that can be learned. Techniques (for example how to hold a goddamn brush) and theory of how human perception works (color contrasts with a color wheel for example) and quite some more stuff.

I had no need to paint anything so I kinda forgot about it, but when I started this hobby and wondered if I could paint those models without being too ashamed of them, I remembered that knowledge can make up for a lot of lack of skill.
So the first thing I did, while still contemplating if I wanted to start wargaming and which army I would pick, was starting to gather knowledge.
I watched YT videos and read blog posts, and learned some very valuable lessons that way. I knew that of cause that practise was also going to be a huge factor to become a decent painter, but I figured that I could avoid a lot of mistakes by learning the parts that depend on knowledge, not talent, before starting, to compensate.

I learned some very valuable lessons there, like
- thin your paints properly
- using a wet palette can help
- let the model help you with the lines by using the correct brush and holding it at a correct angle.
- don't actually paint some details that are too small for you, use inks/washes/shades that will fill the crevices automatically for you, drybrushing takes care of raised surfaces
- analyze the model. It tells you things about the materials, giving hints for possible colors.
- look at contrasts and how you want to use them: brightness contrast, color contrast (use that wheel!), detail contrast (you know, detailed areas vs. less detailed areas)

Those and others are not dependent on talent, you can just learn them. Up to a certain level talent can make up for lack of knowledge and - more important for me - vice versa.

So a big shout out to guys And gals like Atom Smasher, Joey Berry, the Terrain Tutor, Warchef Ändi, Mini Creative Art Painting, Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic, Next Level Painting, Spikey Bits, and Warhammer TV.

And also thanks to y'all here at the forums!
There are SO many inspiring projects here, helpful posts how to do stuff, lessons to learn from successful and failed experiments, and a whole lot of pics of good models to use as templates for my own work.

So that's how I do stuff. And yeah, I already improved a lot. I am sure I will never belong to the group of really good painters, those need considerable knowledge AND talent. But I already surpassed all my expectations and that makes me happy. With a little bit (or a a lot) of additional practice I will improve a bit more, and that's a level I can more than just live with.

Ok, now back to painting, I have some projects to finish. :)
 
I learned some very valuable lessons there, like
- thin your paints properly
- using a wet palette can help
- let the model help you with the lines by using the correct brush and holding it at a correct angle.
- don't actually paint some details that are too small for you, use inks/washes/shades that will fill the crevices automatically for you, drybrushing takes care of raised surfaces
- analyze the model. It tells you things about the materials, giving hints for possible colors.
- look at contrasts and how you want to use them: brightness contrast, color contrast (use that wheel!), detail contrast (you know, detailed areas vs. less detailed areas)

So a big shout out to guys And gals like Atom Smasher, Joey Berry, the Terrain Tutor, Warchef Ändi, Mini Creative Art Painting, Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic, Next Level Painting, Spikey Bits, and Warhammer TV.

I completely agree with the above. When I learned to thin properly and how to make an easy reusable wet palette (thanks to TT Minions) my efficiency went up 10 fold. It also helped painting too, but mostly efficiency. I can support Atom, Doctor Faust, Next Level/Long War/Spikey (although I can only tolerate so much of them at one time), and of course Warhammer TV.

It's amazing the amount of resources we have available these days for our hobby, something even 5 years ago, definitely 10, was mainly word of mouth or figuring it out yourself.

It's one of the best times to be apart of this hobby.
 
It's one of the best times to be apart of this hobby.

I guess you meant "a part of this hobby" :p
And yes you´re totally right, I started in 2010 (7 years already!) and I have to say that my knowlegde and therefore quality has improved gradually , something like a parabola ( :p:poto::p). And I´m sure one of the causes for this change is the time I´ve spent watching Youtube videos, they really help a lot :)
 
I guess you meant "a part of this hobby" :p
And yes you´re totally right, I started in 2010 (7 years already!) and I have to say that my knowlegde and therefore quality has improved gradually , something like a parabola ( :p:poto::p). And I´m sure one of the causes for this change is the time I´ve spent watching Youtube videos, they really help a lot :)

I did mean "a part", indeed! I was on mobile when I posted that, fat fingers and all.
 
I bought a can of Corax White (GW White Primer), shook it for a couple minutes, wasn't humid or hot weather, treated it just like my black primers -- ended up going on chalky and with a texture. I know there are other primer brands and options, but that one experience made me "ruin" a Ghostkeel -- I painted over it, but it still kept that grainy/sandy/chalky texture. Won't be going back to white primer anytime soon unfortunately.

I've been using black primer (either GW's or rustoleum) and been happy, but thought about trying a Grey primer but haven't gotten around to it yet.
I had the same issue with my can of GW white primer.

Used it on skeletons and they came out like shit. Never using it again... I only prime using airbrush now.
 
I've yet built up the courage and confidence, and researched enough, to get an airbrush. It's on my list, still lots to learn with my brush for now.

It's not as scary as you think, I bought a Iwata setup but I also have 2 £15 airbrushes I use for primer and base coat, they are fine for that, I 've not used mine a lot but when you do it is so fast compared to a brush.
 
I had the same issue with my can of GW white primer.

Used it on skeletons and they came out like shit. Never using it again... I only prime using airbrush now.

GW Spray cans are terrible, Car primer is around £5 a tin and so much better.
 
GW Spray cans are terrible, Car primer is around £5 a tin and so much better.

I love GW's Chaos Black, but its so expensive. I haven't found a decent substitute. I think I'm too afraid to screw up my models more than saving money. Which is.. highly irrational. Oh well ;___;
 
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