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Lord Mazdamundi Conversion Project (Feedback Desired!)

Discussion in 'Painting and Converting' started by Oh_Man, Apr 16, 2018.

  1. Aginor
    Slann

    Aginor Fifth Spawning

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    I agree, he looks very good. :)
     
  2. Cageyblood
    Saurus

    Cageyblood Active Member

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    Looks awesome! If it’s not too much trouble could I see it from the side? It seemed like that angle was where you had the most trouble making it look good and I’d love to see how it turned out.
     
  3. Oh_Man
    Skink

    Oh_Man Member

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    Hey thanks all for the kind words. Cagey will get that side pic soon. In the mean time, here are some more pics of the completed throne:

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
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  4. NIGHTBRINGER
    Slann

    NIGHTBRINGER Second Spawning

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    Nice work!!!
     
  5. Crowsfoot
    Slann

    Crowsfoot Guardian of Paints Staff Member

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    Looking good ;)
     
  6. Aginor
    Slann

    Aginor Fifth Spawning

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    Agree. :)
     
  7. Oh_Man
    Skink

    Oh_Man Member

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  8. Oh_Man
    Skink

    Oh_Man Member

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    [​IMG]

    Can anyone help me with advice for painting the bones/horns like that? And the hooves, what colours were used there? I'm trying to emulate the techniques there but I'm struggling to find any guides on how to do so.
     
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  9. Crowsfoot
    Slann

    Crowsfoot Guardian of Paints Staff Member

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    @Oh_Man

    I will try, guide will be using GW paints and will use one of the large horns as the part being painted.

    Base coat Zandri dust when dry apply an agrax shade to the whole area, when dry apply Ushabti bone start at the tip and work down the horn and stop about 3/4 of the way down, when you stop create a zigzag pattern to help the blend, try to keep the paint thin.

    Now take screaming skull and apply from the tip to about 1/2 way down the horn again do a zigzag pattern but thin the edge where it meets the Ushabti bone, wet clean brush works well, might need 2 coats.

    Apply a spot of skull white on the tip of the horn.

    Where the horn meets the flesh apply a thin line of rhinox hide, thin this down slightly, then apply thin lines from the base of the horn with rhinox hide going up the horn, small lines are all that is needed, you want to see the Ushabti bone.

    Does that make sense?

    I've got a Steggy to paint so I could do a tutorial for this if needed.
     
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  10. Deed525
    Saurus

    Deed525 Active Member

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    @Oh_Man

    Looking good, every time you create something new (green stuff or not) it’s a learning experience, you will have fowl ups but you will also have euricha moments too :)

    I’d say if you aren’t confident in the green stuff - practise, it’s amazing how much you can do with it with really little effort.

    For his head dress you can make straight up green stuff bits - mix the green stuff with more blue than yellow (about a 60/40 mix) and it will be stiffer/darker this means it can be shaped into blockier shapes without the need of flexibility for major detail - shape it and when it’s roughly where you want it (say around the shape of your froggies head) use a marking tool (I literally use a tooth pick for everything) and put some markings into it) - let’s say a basic outline and a sun shape (see other models for inspiration - or simply copy) and leave to set and you can then cut/trim/file into any shape you need - use more green stuff (more yellow than blue) for a more tacky texture to create smaller details like feathers/leaves/bones etc to decorate.

    Try it without the intent of adding onto a model and see how it goes.

    (Sorry for spamming you with an essay) just thought I’d try help you with green stuff - as it is amazing, and as you seem to want to take on biggies like lord Maz - it can seriously enhance what you can do :)

    Hope it helped, love the work - keep it up.
     
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  11. Oh_Man
    Skink

    Oh_Man Member

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    @Crowsfoot

    Man I tried to follow your instructions and wound up with this LOL:
    [​IMG]

    The difference with screaming skull and ushabti bone is very subtle and you prob can barely even see it on the image, but the differences between ushabti bone, rhinox hide and zandri dust all look quite stark. Yeah I think a tutorial would be awesome because clearly I suck with horns haha. I really wanna master this skill too because I reckon I'll be painting a lot more horns in the future.

    @Deed525
    Yeah thanks for your advice I did actually buy some green stuff and some sculpting tools and I'm gonna try and mess with it and post results. It's gonna be really important for some of the conversions I want to do, because there are going to be some trouble models in this project:

    Kholek Suneater - no model actually exists for him so I've looked around on Google and saw a neat conversion with a combination of Bloodthirster and Stardrake that I may attempt. If anyone has any ideas let me know!

    Alberic de Bordealeux - no model exists for him either so I'm going to use this Bretonnian Lord model and a trident from a Stormcast Prosecutor to represent the Trident of Manaan.

    Grand Hierophant Khatep - no model exists for him so I'm just going to use a Liche Priest and take off the scroll cloak from a Stormcast Lord Relictor.

    Helman Ghorst - no model exists for him so I think I'll just use the Corpse Cart. MAYBE if I build up some greenstuff skill I can attempt to give him a hangman's noose around his neck like in the game.
     
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  12. NIGHTBRINGER
    Slann

    NIGHTBRINGER Second Spawning

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    What greens did you use on the scales? They look great!
     
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  13. Crowsfoot
    Slann

    Crowsfoot Guardian of Paints Staff Member

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    Your not far away, you just need ushabti bone further up and extend the rhinox hide
     
  14. Deed525
    Saurus

    Deed525 Active Member

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    @Oh_Man

    If the colours are too obvious, try mixing the two shades together 50/50 then add the lighter one ontop of that, it’ll make it a bit more seemless.

    Haha yeah you will probably want some green stuff for those ;D

    I swear it’s not half as hard as you first imagine, just like everything - practise makes perfect.
     
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  15. Aginor
    Slann

    Aginor Fifth Spawning

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    I also think you are almost there with the horns, just a bit of shade (you might want to use two layers on some parts) and it will look very good.
     
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  16. Ritual
    Skar-Veteran

    Ritual Well-Known Member

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    I will share with you my top secret, super easy bone/horn/nail method...

    Base with ushabti bone.

    Wash with agrax earth shade, pooling towards the bottom.

    Highlight with a couple of thing layers of palid wych flesh quite thin and aiming to have the most colour towards the top of the horn.

    Wash with seraphin sepia.

    You can get bonus points by doing a couple of layers on the agrax and sepia with ever increasing pooling towards the bottom, make sure you let it dry properly between coats. That will get it closer to your source image.

    Example on my blog:

    Croaks throne: http://www.lustriaonline.com/thread...on-for-the-waaaaagh.19165/page-49#post-239621

    Horns/claws on Gobba: http://www.lustriaonline.com/thread...on-for-the-waaaaagh.19165/page-47#post-237307

    Teeth/claws on Manglers: http://www.lustriaonline.com/thread...on-for-the-waaaaagh.19165/page-47#post-238153
     
  17. Nefertem
    Temple Guard

    Nefertem Well-Known Member

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    Try this one
     
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  18. Oh_Man
    Skink

    Oh_Man Member

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    [​IMG]

    Hnnng

    @Ritual Yeah that was the method I used for my kroqgar but I was trying to learn this new method now where you get vertical striations running down the length of the horn but it seems to be mission impossible.
     
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  19. Deed525
    Saurus

    Deed525 Active Member

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    Looks like the effect is nearly there, but the colour differences are too obvious - also the paint is thick, maybe try watering it down a tad?
     
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  20. Acrocanth
    Temple Guard

    Acrocanth Well-Known Member

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    I mean these things also look worse up close then from a distance. Some of these painting tricks work because you stand a certain distance away from a model.

    You have the general idea thought, I've never been very good at it, I'd agree that you probably need some more mid tones between your starker colour changes.
     
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