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Blog My Lord Kroak and Other Models

Discussion in 'Painting and Converting' started by DeathBringer125, Sep 6, 2018.

  1. Aginor
    Slann

    Aginor Fifth Spawning

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    Definitely an improvement, many parts now have better coverage of the paints and you cleaned up some of the spots where the paint didn't follow the lines of the model.
    What really needs some more basecoat work is the bright parts such as the horns.
    Keep in mind that painting a very dark color over a bright one or vice versa (in your case especially the blue, white, and light brown) often requires several coats of paint to properly cover.
    Try to carefully build up the layers (always waiting for it to dry and then add another coat) until there is no black showing through anymore.

    I see you used a light brown to drybrush the white bone.
    It looks like the drybrush worked in principle, as you see it puts the color just onto the raised areas. I am sure you already noticed how it makes the areas look more detailed than you actually are able to paint directly (at least without being very good in edge highlighting, but that's for another lesson), and that's exactly what the technique is good for.
    Now, the "problem" with that is that usually the goal is to make the raised area a lighter color, as if light catches on it, while making the recesses darker using a shade. You occasionally want it to be the other way round but that's not the norm.
    I think the effect it has on the white, making it look less uniform and more like the rotting bone it actually is, adds to your model. In the future you will most likely change that recipe a bit, but I'd say it is an improvement over the plain white you previously had.




    Ok, so while you work on your basecoat a little more I'd like to tell you a bit about a thing some people call "color recipes" or "material recipes".
    It basically means that for every material you want to paint you make a recipe what colors and techniques you are planning to use. That helps you to get the materials look consistent when you paint another model.

    Here are a few examples of material recipes I use:

    Bone/Claws/Horns
    - basecoat AP Skeleton Bone
    - shade AP Soft Tone
    - drybrush AP Brainmatter Beige

    Stone:
    - basecoat AP Uniform Grey
    - shade AP Dark Tone
    - drybrush AP Ash Grey
    - if brownish tint is desired: shade AP soft tone

    Blue Seraphon skin:
    - basecoat AP Crystal Blue
    - shade AP Blue Tone
    - drybrush GW Temple Guard Blue

    Kroak's bandages:
    - basecoat AP Leather Brown
    - shade AP Dark Tone
    - drybrush AP Skeleton Bone
    - if drybrush too bright: shade AP Soft Tone

    Ghost green:
    - basecoat AP Matt White
    - shade AP Green Tone
    - heavy drybrush AP Matt White
    - glaze GW Waywatcher Green
    - light drybrush AP Matt White

    On each step I name the technique and then I name the color I use, which consists of an abbreviation for the paint company (AP for Army Painter, GW for Games Workshop and so on) and the actual name of the color it has on its label.

    As you see I always start with the basecoat, then shade, then drybrush, and occasionally there would be another shade or drybrush after that.
    Some recipes consist of just two steps, while others have four or more, like the last recipe which also has a glaze and two different drybrushing steps.
    There are also optional steps sometimes, if two recipes are very similar to each other.

    You can see a similar thing in the "Citadel Paint" app by Games Workshop. Of course they only use GW color names, but when searching for a recipe I often browse through that app, looking for a part of a model that roughly looks like what I am trying to paint, and then I search my available colors for the one that is closest to the GW color in the app.
     
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  2. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    Nice I will continue to work on him ty for all the help and support.
     
  3. Crowsfoot
    Slann

    Crowsfoot Guardian of Paints Staff Member

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    Add just like to add to @Aginor great post above,

    when you paint models write down your scheme, that way when you expand your army and you can't remember how you painted a unit it's there in black and white.
     
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  4. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    Ok so something I’m still a little confused about is shading. Does Lord Kroak need it? And how is it done. I can’t thank you guys enough for all this help.
     
  5. Chicken Lips
    Carnasaur

    Chicken Lips Well-Known Member

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    Not on the dark areas. Shading is to indicate shadows on a model. It gives 3D depth to the model and keeps it from seeming so flat. This usually works well with lighter colored areas (like human flesh for example). Eventually, you'll get to a point with your painting that you don't rely on washes as much and just layer up several colors, getting lighter and lighter, until you painted on your shade. But that's still a bit more advanced than you want to tackle at the moment.
    The dark browns of your LK model don't need it right now.
     
  6. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    Ok nice ty I’m fixing the bones tonight and touching up some other bits
     
  7. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    Crap I didn’t have any time to do it. I might do it tomorrow
     
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  8. Aginor
    Slann

    Aginor Fifth Spawning

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    Take your time. :)
     
  9. NIGHTBRINGER
    Slann

    NIGHTBRINGER Second Spawning

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    Words to live by (at least for me and my painting)!
     
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  10. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    I finally touched up the bones and I brightened the red some. It looks way better ty for all your help.
     
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  11. Irish Lizarman
    Cold One

    Irish Lizarman Active Member

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    the single thing i did that improved my painting was thinning my paints
     
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  12. NIGHTBRINGER
    Slann

    NIGHTBRINGER Second Spawning

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    Good advice. It is monumentally important in achieving better results!
     
  13. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    Paint is thinned by putting a little water on it right?
     
  14. NIGHTBRINGER
    Slann

    NIGHTBRINGER Second Spawning

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    Water or better yet a thinning medium such as Citadel's Lahmian medium (other brands have similar products, just using GW's as an example). Admittedly I predominantly use water but that is more out of habit than best practices.
     
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  15. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    Nice and also I’m prepping to paint my balewind vortex and possible my cogs as well. I’m going to try out and interesting color scheme that could end up looking stupid or amazing lol.
     
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  16. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    I didn’t get to finish it lol I’m nowhere near done. But here is what I did so far. I plan to paint the skulls white and then go from there. Also in the skulls eye sockets should I have the red as contrast? Should I paint in white? Or should I make them glow blue like Kroak’s eyes?
     

    Attached Files:

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  17. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    B45838E6-8025-4BCD-8A86-98D9252D00BA.jpeg 3042B752-5C1F-416F-926E-55785268E7AC.jpeg 153281A1-BD46-4F2A-A68B-0D08B445F4E3.jpeg I worked my on my Balewind Vortex. It’s not anywhere near done but I finished the white of the skulls (they may need touched up) and added blue highlights. The green I will as more layers to to brighten it. Also I need to touch up the red around the skulls and then I just have to add more details lol.
     
  18. Aginor
    Slann

    Aginor Fifth Spawning

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    A bright drybrush on the stone and a light brown wash over everything except the blue, and it will look pretty decent.
     
  19. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    What is a wash? Also what color should I use to drybrush?
     
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  20. Crowsfoot
    Slann

    Crowsfoot Guardian of Paints Staff Member

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    A wash is a thinner paint that flows into the recess of the model adding depth.



    Drybrush is where you remove most of the paint from your brush and flick it over the model to pickout highlights.

     
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