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Blog My Lord Kroak and Other Models

Discussion in 'Painting and Converting' started by DeathBringer125, Sep 6, 2018.

  1. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    I just finished painting my EotG, some saurus Knights, and my chronomantic cogs. I can’t upload a picture we are at a place with no internet except for a small booster that barely allows any signal at all lol. I will upload pics when I’m home on Sunday probably.
     
  2. LizardWizard
    Troglodon

    LizardWizard Well-Known Member

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    Your models are decent first attempts. @Aginor & @Crowsfoot are steering you in the right direction.

    My advice in continuing your hobbying journey is to focus on brush technique. Make Small simple marks and lay down your paint slowly and neatly. Keep your paints thin enough that your surfaces stay smooth, but not so thin that all the paint runs into the crevices. If you can keep a clean base coat your task will be easier and you will have an easier time seeing the details of the model as you paint it.

    It is more time intensive, but I like to spend about 10 minuets really looking at a model before I prime it. I also always prime with a brush. This helps me focus on the details and allows me to practice how my brush will access various parts of the model.

    I have never been one to like dry brushing, but that is likely because I was never very good at it. Even when I think my brush is dry enough I still get directional streaking and chalky line. Instead I prefer wet on wet blends. The moral being, find the techniques that work the best for your style. Youtube is full of wonderful resources and tutorials. GW even puts out a number of painting videos.

    Patients goes farther than talent in this hobby. Your Balewind is already a step in the right direction. Keep at it and you will continue to grow as an artist.
     
  3. Crowsfoot
    Slann

    Crowsfoot Guardian of Paints Staff Member

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    Your not wrong ;)
     
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  4. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    E2FA183F-8F84-4F19-98ED-E5932F340104.jpeg 8A745970-C6E7-4A14-867F-E22E5CC2B940.jpeg 860E8ED6-FABA-4722-B430-4C2F8365E8AE.jpeg 3BE3A611-B760-4E09-9898-540EE6CD0948.jpeg 91C8A2C5-063F-45AA-BF26-989E8805D2C1.jpeg D324317E-DCA3-4D8A-A9B1-39BDAF66B0E3.jpeg D3472767-751F-48DE-A4F0-26188F5AD76B.jpeg 6C858FE5-FD58-4131-990F-A3A959602E75.jpeg 984095FC-3518-4662-9387-0880288FDAFF.jpeg 24028947-F4C8-4B27-9881-5EDB3D83B754.jpeg Sorry for bombardment of pics lol but this is all of the new guys I painted. Pls give me some tips if there is something that needs work.
     
  5. LizardWizard
    Troglodon

    LizardWizard Well-Known Member

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    I like the cogs. You are already showing improvement. I first saw your original posting on Lord Kroak last night. It is neat to see how much you have already improved since your first models.

    One thing that stands out a bit more to me this morning is that you might be overworking your paint. Which is say you appear to be adding fresh paint to the surface of tacky paint. I had this issue on some surfaces when I first began wet blending because I was working too slowly and my paints would dry while I was still attempting to build my blends. This would cause my top layer to peel and break down the paints underneath. My Cockatrice has the same color damage and slight blackening on corners and deep surfaces. Assuming that you aren't trying your hand at wet blends yet, I would just let a bit more time pass between layers, shading, and dry blushing. It could be that your shade is still tacky when you apply your dry brushing.

    You are moving in the right direction. Keep at it. I look forward to seeing your future models.
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2018
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  6. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I have accidentally painted when it was still a bit tacky I’ve been working on waiting more despite how it kills me lol.
     
  7. Crowsfoot
    Slann

    Crowsfoot Guardian of Paints Staff Member

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    Better but I think your not getting a nice even base coat, 2 thin coats are better than one thick one, to stop you working on a model that is still tacky paint 5 at once or have a terrain piece you can work on while waiting for paint to dry.
     
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  8. LizardWizard
    Troglodon

    LizardWizard Well-Known Member

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    Or do what I do and stare at it while willing the paint to dry faster. lol.

    Actually, I have the bad habit of painting a nose length away from my model, so I always use my dry times to stretch and let my eyes rest.
     
  9. Aginor
    Slann

    Aginor Fifth Spawning

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    Hair dryer to the rescue! :D
     
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  10. LizardWizard
    Troglodon

    LizardWizard Well-Known Member

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    Once you are ready for a new technique I recommend watching some videos on glazing. It is a shockingly easy and highly effective technique. The link is a bit long, but well worth the watch. It plays into the idea of painting with thinned downed paints and is very similar to layering based blends and color transition. Essentially think of it as layering meets wet blending. Painting Buddha does phenomenal glaze work as well in the event you ever want to feel like a horrible painter after watching him awesome his way through a model.
     
  11. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    Hey sorry it’s been a while lol. Recently I’ve been working on converting a saurus warrior to an astrolith bearer. I don’t have pics yet but I should tomorrow. I followed crowsfoot’s idea in the forum Getting the most from your start collecting box. But lol I only had one SCB so I made some modifications. I will send pics tomorrow but so far it’s looking pretty good.
     
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  12. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    FFB43CCC-70A1-4DC1-9EFC-16CB2A5CF26C.jpeg 768588DB-F7ED-4A85-B241-C1F87996FF4C.jpeg 3A47A1F8-13E1-4582-8A91-26189000DD85.jpeg 183707A0-AFA5-49F2-84CB-AEF4865EB621.jpeg CF3F8BA8-2FB2-4FE7-907B-3378D1D2E310.jpeg This is the early model. I plan to repaint it completely. The green stuff is foliage to go around his feet because I had to cut off his feet to get home off his base. I 3d printed both the bases that will be used (it’s so useful). I chose a slotted base to see if I could help prop up his banner in it. Lol my problem is that he falls forwards. Anyone know how to fix this? I will work more on it tonight probably. Please post tips and what you think!
     
  13. LizardWizard
    Troglodon

    LizardWizard Well-Known Member

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    You're getting better. It looks like you were more patient with letting your paints dry.

    NOOOOO his poor toesies:eek:

    Using some glue acceleration when you attach him to the base will make it easier to affix him. The base should provide a large enough footprint once he is glued to it to prevent his tipping. Although, that is a big chunk of resin on the his banner. Maybe some type of a metal counter weight at the rear underside of his base?
     
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  14. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    Actually lol I didn’t paint this guy. But I do plan to prime over him and repaint him lol. Also the banner isn’t resin lol that’s plastic from my 3d printer (the light blue) an yes I do need some sort of counter weight lol do you have any ideas for how I could do it?
     
  15. LizardWizard
    Troglodon

    LizardWizard Well-Known Member

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    If it is a printed base you will likely need to cut a recess into the bottom of it. Any small dense metal object should do the trick. You could cut a metal washer in half and stack it.
     
  16. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    Oh I like that idea lol ty for all the help. I will hopefully do more later but I can’t guarauntee it.
     
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  17. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    5064A48B-B212-4780-9D47-E2EFAA37504B.jpeg 258A81CC-FD53-43DA-AC4C-E28CD94662E3.jpeg 9819EE95-EE34-4E0B-A090-51F8693C37EE.jpeg F3D28E79-2260-40A9-BD9A-452F379D8AF5.jpeg 629C7982-E6FF-41CB-8B5A-85B5F12F33EE.jpeg 9A3CF224-5FF6-48D9-9FCF-2BE9EC9ED74F.jpeg B4EDEC52-5BA1-48E6-B233-EA7A08205211.jpeg 0B0AD607-1BDE-48CE-A60F-FBCF49A6EB05.jpeg 1042C7C2-EF64-4C59-B40E-67B8A9CE65B7.jpeg I finally finished my projects I was working on. The first thing is 3d printed version of The Burning Head spell. I painted it a fire like color. Any tips on how I could improve it? The next thing I did is my converted saurus astrolith bearer. The 40mm base and the base for the banner were 3d printed. The mini base was added to keep it upright and help with balance (it worked so well I didn’t need a counter balance at all and I stands up solidly). The green stuff added around the base makes it look cool and conceals the fact that he has no feet lol. Tell me what you guys think as well as some feedback!
     
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  18. Crowsfoot
    Slann

    Crowsfoot Guardian of Paints Staff Member

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    The skull can be drastically improved by adding some highlights, drybrush it light orange then yellow on the face and tips of the flames, shading as well but skip that for now as I think a glaze after highlights might work better.

    The converted AB while the concept works the paint is too thick, there is no detail on the model, I know your using hobby paints but you should still be applying thin coats.

    What brush are you using, size, quality?

    Good effort ;)
     
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  19. tom ndege
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    tom ndege Well-Known Member

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    I'd say keep the skull darker and go for stronger and/or more highlights on the flames... Orange and bright orange (mixed with white or yellow) for the skull and additional yellow, bright yellow and maybe even white for the actual flames...
    Also keep in mind what @Crowsfoot said... thin coats! I know it's easier said than done when talking about hobby paints...
     
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  20. DeathBringer125
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    DeathBringer125 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I tried to get thin coats but I didn’t add enough water. Any ideas on how to fix this? Also yeah the skull needs work. I don’t have all the right colors of red and orange for it so that is a factor.
     
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