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Help Finecast? Astrolith bearer

Solabar
Skink

Solabar

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Well, I picked up an astrolith bearer at Warhammer World on the weekend. Got round to opening it and boy did it look a mess...Is this normal. I have trimmed some of the flash away in this pic though.
 

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Yes, that looks OK to me. All resin models I have are easy to build and nightmares to clean of all that crap. You have tiny triangles of resin to cut away everywhere, and those resin canals are attached everywhere.

That's because resin (compared to plastic) is cast with much less pressure and only from one direction.

EDIT:
Oh wait, the skull broken off is not normal I think.
 
The skull has broken off the banner but not a major issue, trim what excess you can easily see then mist coat the model with primer, it will highlight the rest for you.

Mist coat = a thin coat just to bring out detail, we use it when spraying car wheels to show imperfections.
 
Solabar said:
Arrrgh I think resin should come with a warning sign then LOL
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They should just ditch it. It is worse than plastic in about every regard.
My orc-playing friend built one or two resin models and then he decided he will never build a resin model again. So whenever he looks for new models to build his first question to answer is: "Resin or plastic?" If it is resin he doesn't even look at it anymore so he doesn't get angry if it looks cool.
I am not as zealous, but I understand it. I hope we get plastic Razordons, Salamanders, Skink Handlers, Chameleon Skinks, Slanns, Eternity Wardens, Sunbloods, Astrolith Bearers and Starseers soon.
 
Aginor said:
They should just ditch it. It is worse than plastic in about every regard.
My orc-playing friend built one or two resin models and then he decided he will never build a resin model again. So whenever he looks for new models to build his first question to answer is: "Resin or plastic?" If it is resin he doesn't even look at it anymore so he doesn't get angry if it looks cool.
I am not as zealous, but I understand it. I hope we get plastic Razordons, Salamanders, Skink Handlers, Chameleon Skinks, Slanns, Eternity Wardens, Sunbloods, Astrolith Bearers and Starseers soon.
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I don't think they use it any more and reverted back to plastic, I could be wrong.
 
AFAIK you are right, I don't know of any new resin models except from Forgeworld, and those probably use a different, more expensive sort of resin that allows fore detailed stuff.
 
Must have been last of a run then. GW customer service said they didn't have anymore.
 
I much prefer the polyresin models to plastic there are some downsides to them for sure but they are a lot less brittle for lengthy items but then that lends them to warping out of shape - but for me I just prefer that I didn't realise it wasn't so popular - as much as I like metal models the paint chipping from them is the biggest concern.
 
With all my old metal, I found a decent spray varnish stopped the chipping. Plastic is cleaner. Brittle has never been an issue in plastics for me really. Unless you count clear plastic flying stands :D
 
I had one giant poly resin model from forgeworld that came with a warning about filling the stuff and that the dust can be dangerous to enhale so that's something to keep an eye on :P
 
I've been on the look out for a decent varnish myself, but I am scared of spray ones following a lot of horror stories regarding the dreaded milky finish. Tempted to try a brush on varnish...

I actually have some of the Vallejo airbrush ones, matte, satin, and gloss, but haven't tried them out yet.
 
Ritual said:
I've been on the look out for a decent varnish myself, but I am scared of spray ones following a lot of horror stories regarding the dreaded milky finish. Tempted to try a brush on varnish...

I actually have some of the Vallejo airbrush ones, matte, satin, and gloss, but haven't tried them out yet.
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Don't be scared they only go milky if it's too cold or you apply too much too soon, I apply a quick coat then leave it 10 minutes and then apply another coat and then a final 3rd coat.

Spray paints tend to sag, drip etc due to the solvent that is put in too keep it thin, if you spray and leave it for a few minutes the solvent starts to evaporate and the paint becomes tacky this is the ideal time to apply your next coat as it grabs the paint and holds it in place.
 
Crowsfoot said:
Don't be scared they only go milky if it's too cold or you apply too much too soon, I apply a quick coat then leave it 10 minutes and then apply another coat and then a final 3rd coat.

Spray paints tend to sag, drip etc due to the solvent that is put in too keep it thin, if you spray and leave it for a few minutes the solvent starts to evaporate and the paint becomes tacky this is the ideal time to apply your next coat as it grabs the paint and holds it in place.
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I shall be brave and varnish my Skinks and go from there then!
 
Crowsfoot said:
3. Army painter Anti-shine- this is just as good as Testors and a fraction of the price, my goto lacquer now.
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Good to know. :)

So is it anti-shine as in a fully matt finish? Does it do a sufficient job in preventing paint chipping on metal models?
 
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