Blog Gettin' the Host back together- 3D Prints!

[Croco Guard]

Hello, this is Croco.

After a long time from the hobby, I have a job and money now. All my paints and brushes have died, but my miniatures stayed strong during their brumation and are ready to be stripped and painted anew. So here I go with a new paint scheme, better methods, and hopefully less paint pots knocked over.

General Info: I mostly like painting warhammer lizardmen models, but I already have some dungeons and dragons as well as generic fantasy models bought and waiting for some priming. I primarily own citadel paints as they are what I'm used to, but I'm open to suggestions and my local comic shop has vallejo and a small selection of P3 paint. I have a homemade wet palette that works well and the usual assortment of tools in an xacto knife, files (that I need to use more often), and newly acquired brush cleaner.

Thank you for any advice or criticism, because I want to keep improving. As I'm sure to share, there is much improvement to be made from my old models.

Is the proper etiquette attaching images directly, or using image sharing links via imgur or any particular site?
And does size matter?


I only have one properly painted band member to show now, and he isn't even the current paint scheme idea, but maybe some others will play with him before too long.


I'm looking at going for a sandy kind of beige with the underside of my saurus at least, and would like some tips on washes and drybrushing to such a color. I've given fleshshade and earthshade tries, but they seem to overpower the color a bit.

 

[Crowsfoot]

Welcome again,

First off I see your using GW? if so download the app it will help you choose colours that work together.

Sepia is a good wash choice to go over tans/beige don't let the wash puddle.

How do you drybrush? one heavy coat? if so try doing 2 lighter coats and build up the highlight it will look smoother when finished, when your comfortable with that we can get you trying spot highlights and layering

Don't worry were here to guide you all we can.

 

[Itepixcauh]

Welcome back!

I went through exactly the same process as you have, it's a great experience enjoy it!

I LOVE the beige underbelly idea for the Saurus, it looks extremely well.

 

[BeardyGecko]

And does size matter?

It's not the size of your lizard that matters it's how you paint it.

 

[Phoedinn]

Just to second what Crowsfoot said, Sepia would be a good bet You can also try mixing it a bit with "Lahmian Medium" to thin it down a bit and make the shadows a bit less harsh if you want to keep it bright!

 

[n810]

Either method of sharing pictures is ok,
I find uploading images I created directly to the site easier,
while I usualy just end up using links when posting pics from the internet in general.

Also try and keep sizes reasonable, 10MP images are usually wasted
as they usually just end up being slow loading thumbnails for most people.

 

[Warden]

Welcome! I also like the tan underbelly-paint you did on that scar vet. And the classic temple guard mini, I got five of those guys fleshing out my own temple guard regiment!

Either method of sharing pictures is ok,
I find uploading images I created directly to the site easier,
while I usualy just end up using links when posting pics from the internet in general.

Also try and keep sizes reasonable, 10MP images are usually wasted
as they usually just end up being slow loading thumbnails for most people.

+1

 

[ravagekitteh]

I like the blue and ten combination of the blue and tan too! It gives a beachy sort of look

 

[Croco Guard]

Thanks for the advice on the wash. Picked it up at the store and I'd say it hits the spot I wanted. Gonna work on him a bit more before sharing another photo, but I have already gotten the carnosaur painted up enough to share. Excuse the lighting quality. Might rig up a little lightbox later. When deciding my paint scheme I had always liked the blues used with lizardmen, but started realizing plenty of my favorite lizardy things have blue with tan undersides. Lagiacrus from Monster Hunter and the Soul Calibur 5 version of Lizardman as examples.

 

[ravagekitteh]

That's amazing! It looks just like the 'Eavy Metal version!

 

[Aginor]

Yeah, looks pretty good already!

 

[Croco Guard]

I'm adding in the gold now and have seen other folks back theirs with a nice black, so I've given that a try. The gold currently is GW retributor and I will wash that with fleshed from the advice I've seen others receive. I've drybrushed twice with varying levels of grey on the black portions of his armor. Would a leadbelcher or other metallic make the black look a bit more protective? That's what I'm leaning towards doing tonight.

I'm a bit worried I'm approaching too many different big colors, so not sure if I'll keep hand of the gods to golds or if I can add a more enchanted feel to it. Opinions welcome, please don't look closely at his buck teeth as I haven't paid attention to his teethers yet. （-＿-）

 

[Aginor]

I would probably keep it gold but you could give the ball in the palm some nice shiny color.

On my own Oldblood I made it red with gold and a yellow ball so it looks like the hand of an Iron Man suit.

 

[Crowsfoot]

I always try to stay to around 5 colours when I paint a model, if you use more the model can look disjointed but there are exceptions, larger models can take more colours but as a general rule I work on 5.

 

[Toltecatl]

Hey,
Metallic colours on black will tend to give the impression that the armour has dings and isnt really in great condition anymore. Unless you really work it in a smooth way to look like very dark metal, but then it might become somewhat confusing for the eye, what with all the gold there is on the edges of the armour plates.
If you want these black parts to look more like shiny, hard metal, you might as well try and work on the the contrast a little that is, in (very) short, put some highlights that create the impression of a gradient. Painting black in a realistic way is pretty difficult actually…
Anyway, I've recently done some research on that and here are a couple articles:
https://miniaturemiscellany.wordpress.com/tutorials/painting-black/
http://flameonminiatures.blogspot.fr/2014/01/black-color-painting-tutorial.html
http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.fr/2014/05/tutorial-painting-colour-black.html
http://www.critskillpeople.com/2015/07/painting-black.html/
http://figurementors.com/painting-black-power-armour-by-giovanni-di-lena
This may be a bit far fetched for now (it is for me…) but it might be useful later The first one is the simplest if I remember well, it'll give you an idea pretty quickly.

As for the hand, You could always try and paint it gold but with a different colour for shades and/or glazes so that it stands out a bit?

Have fun anyway!!

 

[Croco Guard]

Thanks for the advice Toltecatl. I also have a Richter Krueger to repaint that will rely much more on good black painting. I ended up giving just a bit of grey dry brushing to the black portions.

And thank you Crowsfoot. I kept his hand gold with some small leadbelcher circles along with using a red gem for all his magical bits.

I'm happy enough with my progress to give a full go around of him in picture form using my new handmade light box.



And extra one for his hand of the gods gem.

 

[Aginor]

I think the read looks nice.

 

[Croco Guard]

We've had a bit of snow over the past week and it has left me lazy. That and my indecisive painting on kroq's chair. I've seen painting those tusks with black tips, brown stripes, brown at the bottom and I had no idea what flavor to go for.

I've seen other folks paint in their triangles with alternating colors and I think that looks cool. It will likely be my next step while prepping the ropes attached to the carnosaur's head.

 

[Ritual]

Nice dabbled effect on the stone, good job.

 

[Aginor]

Indeed! Nice texture.