Blog My Lord Kroak and Other Models

Your models are decent first attempts. @Aginor & @Crowsfoot are steering you in the right direction.

My advice in continuing your hobbying journey is to focus on brush technique. Make Small simple marks and lay down your paint slowly and neatly. Keep your paints thin enough that your surfaces stay smooth, but not so thin that all the paint runs into the crevices. If you can keep a clean base coat your task will be easier and you will have an easier time seeing the details of the model as you paint it.

It is more time intensive, but I like to spend about 10 minuets really looking at a model before I prime it. I also always prime with a brush. This helps me focus on the details and allows me to practice how my brush will access various parts of the model.

I have never been one to like dry brushing, but that is likely because I was never very good at it. Even when I think my brush is dry enough I still get directional streaking and chalky line. Instead I prefer wet on wet blends. The moral being, find the techniques that work the best for your style. Youtube is full of wonderful resources and tutorials. GW even puts out a number of painting videos.

Patients goes farther than talent in this hobby. Your Balewind is already a step in the right direction. Keep at it and you will continue to grow as an artist.

 

Your not wrong

 

I like the cogs. You are already showing improvement. I first saw your original posting on Lord Kroak last night. It is neat to see how much you have already improved since your first models.

One thing that stands out a bit more to me this morning is that you might be overworking your paint. Which is say you appear to be adding fresh paint to the surface of tacky paint. I had this issue on some surfaces when I first began wet blending because I was working too slowly and my paints would dry while I was still attempting to build my blends. This would cause my top layer to peel and break down the paints underneath. My Cockatrice has the same color damage and slight blackening on corners and deep surfaces. Assuming that you aren't trying your hand at wet blends yet, I would just let a bit more time pass between layers, shading, and dry blushing. It could be that your shade is still tacky when you apply your dry brushing.

You are moving in the right direction. Keep at it. I look forward to seeing your future models.

 

Better but I think your not getting a nice even base coat, 2 thin coats are better than one thick one, to stop you working on a model that is still tacky paint 5 at once or have a terrain piece you can work on while waiting for paint to dry.

 

Or do what I do and stare at it while willing the paint to dry faster. lol.

Actually, I have the bad habit of painting a nose length away from my model, so I always use my dry times to stretch and let my eyes rest.

 

Hair dryer to the rescue!

 

Once you are ready for a new technique I recommend watching some videos on glazing. It is a shockingly easy and highly effective technique. The link is a bit long, but well worth the watch. It plays into the idea of painting with thinned downed paints and is very similar to layering based blends and color transition. Essentially think of it as layering meets wet blending. Painting Buddha does phenomenal glaze work as well in the event you ever want to feel like a horrible painter after watching him awesome his way through a model.

 

You're getting better. It looks like you were more patient with letting your paints dry.

NOOOOO his poor toesies

Using some glue acceleration when you attach him to the base will make it easier to affix him. The base should provide a large enough footprint once he is glued to it to prevent his tipping. Although, that is a big chunk of resin on the his banner. Maybe some type of a metal counter weight at the rear underside of his base?

 

If it is a printed base you will likely need to cut a recess into the bottom of it. Any small dense metal object should do the trick. You could cut a metal washer in half and stack it.

 

The skull can be drastically improved by adding some highlights, drybrush it light orange then yellow on the face and tips of the flames, shading as well but skip that for now as I think a glaze after highlights might work better.

The converted AB while the concept works the paint is too thick, there is no detail on the model, I know your using hobby paints but you should still be applying thin coats.

What brush are you using, size, quality?

Good effort