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New to miniature gaming and in need of help

Athrenax said:
I tried googling and it seemed like people were gluing two or three of the icons from the Saurus Warrior kits together to make one, so I suppose that's the norm?
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It´s not the norm, but the easiest to do. You can glue all the bits you like together and call it a standard, and most of the banners made this way look the best (in my opinion) as they are unique.
A good example is @Xlanax_lot ´s battle standard bearer here, the one riding the carnosaur
 
n810 said:
Usually a Scar veteran or whatever they are called now.
There is exactly 1 official Saurus BSB model, but he is expensive and hard to get.
mostly because the Slann could be general and BSB at the same time.
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Ohh, is that listed somewhere in the army book? I couldn't find anything about it in the 6th ed army book, but if that's the case then that should simplify some things! Otherwise I was thinking of taking one of the Temple Guards and turning him into a Scar Vet on foot to be my BSB.

Jorgik said:
It´s not the norm, but the easiest to do. You can glue all the bits you like together and call it a standard, and most of the banners made this way look the best (in my opinion) as they are unique.
A good example is @Xlanax_lot ´s battle standard bearer here, the one riding the carnosaur
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That's a pretty sweet one! And the magnetizing of the hand looks pretty neat, so I don't have to worry about what weapon the characters are most often going to have. Too bad I already glued my Carnosaur-rider.
 
Hey guys! I mostly finished painting my Carnosaur yesterday, but I find I'm struggling to get the skin on the underbelly to look good. I painted it in Ceramite White, but it was way too bright. Tried to mix in some Khorne Red to get a reddish hue similar to the picture on the box, but it just turned out pink. Tried drybrushing on some Ushatbi Bone, but that was way too dark and looked like dirt. I might have just used too much on the brush so it got too concentrated, but I think the difference probably is too big. How do you guys paint that type of area? I also have the eight Cold Ones who will need a similar treatment, though probably a slightly different hue.

Do you think thinning out the Ushatbi Bone a lot and trying to apply it as a wash on top of the Ceramite White would work, or should I try a completely different color? I've thought about getting some Bleached Bone and using that to paint the entire underbelly again, but I fear it might look too much like bone?
 
I think applying an agrax earthshade or another brown wash to ushbati bone will dye the paint enough to give it a good look and pick out the recess details.
 
Athrenax said:
Hey guys! I mostly finished painting my Carnosaur yesterday, but I find I'm struggling to get the skin on the underbelly to look good. I painted it in Ceramite White, but it was way too bright. Tried to mix in some Khorne Red to get a reddish hue similar to the picture on the box, but it just turned out pink. Tried drybrushing on some Ushatbi Bone, but that was way too dark and looked like dirt. I might have just used too much on the brush so it got too concentrated, but I think the difference probably is too big. How do you guys paint that type of area? I also have the eight Cold Ones who will need a similar treatment, though probably a slightly different hue.

Do you think thinning out the Ushatbi Bone a lot and trying to apply it as a wash on top of the Ceramite White would work, or should I try a completely different color? I've thought about getting some Bleached Bone and using that to paint the entire underbelly again, but I fear it might look too much like bone?
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Couple of ways to do white,

Greyish white, base with fenrisian grey then apply a 50/50 mix of fenrisian and white but leave the base coat showing in the creases and at the edge, when dry do a pure white layer leaving your mixed layer showing.

Tanish white, start with Ushatbi bone then wash with Seraphim sepia when dry reapply Ushatbi but avoid the deepest creases and edges, next screaming skull leaving a small part of the ushabti bone layer showing, then apply 50/50 mix screaming skull and white.
 
I'll try out the Ushatbi with a wash :) How different are those shades? They are quite expensive at double the price of the other paints, so I want to stick to just one. Should I go for Seraphim Sepia over Agrax Earthshade? Does it matter?

I'm also getting a dark brown paint to work as wood, and was wondering if I could also use it as a base for bronze? I currently have Gehenna's Gold, but it didn't have great coverage, so I wanted to put a darker color under it to get that bronzy feel. What base should I use under it to get a gold that contrasts the bronze?
 
Athrenax said:
I'll try out the Ushatbi with a wash :) How different are those shades? They are quite expensive at double the price of the other paints, so I want to stick to just one. Should I go for Seraphim Sepia over Agrax Earthshade? Does it matter?

I'm also getting a dark brown paint to work as wood, and was wondering if I could also use it as a base for bronze? I currently have Gehenna's Gold, but it didn't have great coverage, so I wanted to put a darker color under it to get that bronzy feel. What base should I use under it to get a gold that contrasts the bronze?
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I use Seraphim Sepia more than Agrax, you can make your own shades by watering down paints 4/1 or 5/1 is about right.

Dark brown is perfect as a base for gold/copper/brass
 
Crowsfoot said:
I use Seraphim Sepia more than Agrax, you can make your own shades by watering down paints 4/1 or 5/1 is about right.

Dark brown is perfect as a base for gold/copper/brass
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I ended up getting the Sepia and doing what you said with the Bone -> Sepia -> Bone, and it turned out pretty nice! I don't have any lighter bone color yet, so I haven't highlighted further (with Screaming Skull as you said), but I'm not sure it's necessary. We'll se when the rest of the colors are done! As for bronze, I ended up getting Mournfang Brown or something similar, and it still seems quite brown after one layer of Gehenna's Gold, but I'll try another layer.

One more question: I've been given the opportunity to purchase a bag of assorted bits. It's mostly stuff like Stegadon heads and howdahs, but there are some complete models. Among those are some Skink Chiefs and Jungle Swarms. I read a very short summary of one person's thoughts on the various Lizardmen units, and both of these were given the D grade. Is he correct in that these units are basically not worth playing, or do they have some merit?
 
Athrenax said:
I ended up getting the Sepia and doing what you said with the Bone -> Sepia -> Bone, and it turned out pretty nice! I don't have any lighter bone color yet, so I haven't highlighted further (with Screaming Skull as you said), but I'm not sure it's necessary. We'll se when the rest of the colors are done! As for bronze, I ended up getting Mournfang Brown or something similar, and it still seems quite brown after one layer of Gehenna's Gold, but I'll try another layer.

One more question: I've been given the opportunity to purchase a bag of assorted bits. It's mostly stuff like Stegadon heads and howdahs, but there are some complete models. Among those are some Skink Chiefs and Jungle Swarms. I read a very short summary of one person's thoughts on the various Lizardmen units, and both of these were given the D grade. Is he correct in that these units are basically not worth playing, or do they have some merit?
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Mix 60/40 white and bone for a highlight. Gold will need 2 thin coats even with a brown base but make sure you stir the pot to get the metallic flake mixed in.

If the bag of bits is cheap you can always use bits for conversions etc can't comment on how they play as I didn't play 8th.
 
Swarms where ok in 8th, since they gave poison attack to all the allies that where fighting with them in combat,
so mostly they paired well with spear Saurus. Skink chiefs on foot are kinda meh, but their models where great.
 
Athrenax said:
Among those are some Skink Chiefs and Jungle Swarms. I read a very short summary of one person's thoughts on the various Lizardmen units, and both of these were given the D grade. Is he correct in that these units are basically not worth playing, or do they have some merit?
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I think both of those choices are definitely sub-optimal. I personally don't field either of them. Swarms bleed combat resolution way to easily, which negates any advantage that their poison granting ability brings.

Now, Skink chiefs on Terradons/Rippers are pretty solid on the other hand. Several great builds for these guys.
 
NIGHTBRINGER said:
I think both of those choices are definitely sub-optimal. I personally don't field either of them. Swarms bleed combat resolution way to easily, which negates any advantage that their poison granting ability brings.

Now, Skink chiefs on Terradons/Rippers are pretty solid on the other hand. Several great builds for these guys.
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But with the models on foot I assume I can't really use them for that? And if I get a Terradon box they probably include chiefs?
 
Looked like there wasn't that much of use in there since I can't really use additional giant bows and stuff, but I got it for a little under £5 with the purchase of a Priest, so I figured I might as well take it just in case.

So I'm trying to put together a 1000 pts list as quickly as possible, and I'm wondering about a thing: It says my heroes can be 25% of my points. If I put a Scar-Veteran on a Carnosaur, does the Carnosaur count towards the total hero points or can I slot it under rare? It's the deciding factor on whether or not I can put together the 1000 points without buying and assembling an extra box first!
 
Athrenax said:
It says my heroes can be 25% of my points. If I put a Scar-Veteran on a Carnosaur, does the Carnosaur count towards the total hero points or can I slot it under rare?
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Mounts (including the Carnosaur) count towards your hero/lord percentage
 
That megapost included loads of useful information! Thanks for the link!

In other news, I picked up the extra bits and the Priest today, and although I knew the Priest was a metal model, I didn't anticipate the issue I would face: The piece that you slot into the base is too big for the slot in the accompanying base, and I have no idea how to solve it with the tools I have available! Any tips?
 
Push harder, or lightly sand the tab.
They are meant to fit in fairly tight.
 
n810 said:
Push harder, or lightly sand the tab.
They are meant to fit in fairly tight.
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Not sure this is going to work, as not only was it a little too wide (embossed text on the tab), but it was also several millimeters too long. I may be wrong, but that is what it seemed like to me, as I was able to push the front of the tab into the slot with some force, and each time I removed it, it made some minor damage to the sides of the slot, but I was still unable to fit the tab from end to end. I am not sure the base was the one originally shipped with the model, but I assume the size of the slots in bases of the same size are fairly standard?
 
Athrenax said:
Not sure this is going to work, as not only was it a little too wide (embossed text on the tab), but it was also several millimeters too long. I may be wrong, but that is what it seemed like to me, as I was able to push the front of the tab into the slot with some force, and each time I removed it, it made some minor damage to the sides of the slot, but I was still unable to fit the tab from end to end. I am not sure the base was the one originally shipped with the model, but I assume the size of the slots in bases of the same size are fairly standard?
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When the metal models are cast they sometimes have residue on the tab, just clean the sides and trim the length with a good sharp craft knife, you can make the slot in the base wider/longer in the same way but be careful you don't snap the base.
 
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