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So... Skinks are ready to paint. I also tried to glue knights to cold ones and those buggers have absolutely no contact points whatsoever! Well... I need to dig up some greenstuff and pin vice....

 

I am working from home today. Better half loaded kiddo into stroller, so I took the opportunity.

 

Hey @JTSleep , are you aware of the "insert image" button that appears after you upload your images into your reply window?

 

I had no idea, I'll try it on this post


I have received info on my clubs for warriors. My supports were too weak and it basically detached immediately.

 

Would you like assistance?

 

You mean picture didn't show properly, or assistance on printing?

Also I must have one of bad luck days. I have just finished slapping speedpaint on those skinks and paint was just sliding on the surface and not sticking. Like there is no primer, or I am painting on glass, I don't know proper term in english. My reason told me to stop painting, figure out what is wrong and correct it. Right?... No, I went full panic mode and slapped even thiccer coat of speedpaint onto them, smearing those surfaces even after it was semi-dry. Right now, skinks are blue... But they look worse than my first attempt with contrasts couple of years ago. Splatches and pooling everywhere. I don't know what is going on... Skink shields I painted yesterday are perfect, so greasy model should not be the problem. I also used same primer so this shouldn't be the case either... Anyway... I think I need to coat them in varnish and then repaint all non blue surfaces with pale sand to continue.

 

i mean with printing, and how to fix your supports.

 

what primer is on these? that would help to figure out why your paint is not adhering.

 

Thanks, but that is not really necessary. Since I personaly do not own that printer, I'll leave future model supporting to owner. He knows that machine better. I just wanted to help him out by relieving of doing them. I did more harm as he had to scrape fails and filter resin. But I appreciate the offer and would definitely accepted it if it was my printer.

I use cheap hobby store primer, but I used the same one on multiple minis without any issues. I sprayed zenithal with same brand white paint, so it might be that. I have also primed 3D printed OPR starpriest and finecast sunblood in same batch, so if those take paint well, I will know that it was mould release sipping through. If not, I will not use that white spray next time.

 

response in red in quote.

 

Thanks a lot, but I sent him unsupported model, he did it himself and it printed properly. I am currently curing them behind my window

I think you are right and support connection points were too small.

 

Dear fucking gods, he sent you uncured resin in the mail or straight up gave you uncured prints?

That's a carcinogenic and toxic material pre curing. That's a safety hazard and you should be wearing nitrile gloves when handling uncured resin and wearing at least a paper mask, if not a carbon filter mask.

More to the point, they should have been dumped In an alcohol bath straight after printing, washed, swapped to warm water, debrided from support structure, and then we get to curing by some form of UV light.

 

He gave them bath in IPA beforehand, but darn, that was quite intense reaction. We commute to work, so he gave them to me directly.
I will point it out to him, we are still learning these things so thanks for heads up.

 

Also, today lunch break progress.



Edit: I will have to remake platform for ankylosaur as I didn´t know connection points of ark itself and it doesn´t fit now. But that is okay... just two more lunch breaks

 

I'm sorry. PPE and proper protection is drilled into me.

I worked for about 4 months in a lab. Putting gloves on when handling harmful materials is ingrained in me now.

And knowing the nasty shit this stuff can cause, I tend to be rather vocal about it.

I apologize if I offended.

 

No need to apologize I was just suprised as everybody I encountered here so far behaved as tea party participant - polite and proper. I sound like insult, written like this, but I mean it in good way.

Anyway, I have worked with only about half a dozen 3D prints in last year, most of them cured, so I should be okay and he wears gloves when handling them. As for supports and curing, I saw video where guy handled OPR models by curing them, then putting them to really hot water which softened tops of supports and then it disconnected from mini without leaving marks, so I asked him to leave them on and tried it myself.

Also news about bad experience with skinks. I tried to slap some paint on Sunblood shield (sprayed together with skinks) and it did the same thing, so it is definitely that white spray.

 

looks like its time to get a new primer can, then,

Supports are most easily removed after printing, before curing. because they are semi-cured during the printing process, they are bendable and pliable at that point.

once you cure them, they become fully rigid. if you do the cleaning process as i outlined above, and submerse them in warm water, you can flex the raft with your fingers and they should pop right off.

if you cure them beforhand, removing them will cause worse contact-craters then pre-curing.

 

Will do next time.

Guys! It worked! I converted first 12 warriors from spearmen to clubmen (where is that disco music coming from?)! I also managed it using my own design of clubs and pining parts onto miniatures for the first time!

Also, Slaan is mostly glued together. I have to use some putty tomorrow.

 

excellent work on repurposing those saurus.

 

Nice one!