JamJar's Roaring Carnosaur

Here it is!!!

Spoiler: and the originally planned Top 10 roars from page 1 of the thread

Pardon the long delay in delivering. I decided tonight was the night and it had to be done, you all deserve this after being with me from the start. Also I needed to prove I did actually get this working before you all starting giving up on me

The video was shot from my phone secured to a scratch-built rig made from a desk vice, a clothes hanger, a steel ruler and lots of duct tape. After many many takes I chose this one as it was good enough.

In the video I run through all 7 roars I loaded onto the sound module. After this, I place a piece of foam in the mouth the show how it is affected. Ideally I should have blocked the mouth completely with blue tac or tape. I then disassemble the model and show how the current magnets are strong enough to hold everything together, even when shaken. The foam inside is meant to lessen the sound travelling behind the speaker to reduce echo inside the plastic model.

With the speaker isolated, I run a couple of roars to show how the sound is no longer focused through the throat & mouth and has little 'depth' to it. When I hold the speaker firmly in one hand in the shape of a ring, the audio has higher quality and is also louder because the dense tunnel-shaped surface assists in directing the sound waves...or something along those lines. Once I reassemble the model, purposely leave the foam out to give a comparison to the initial roars from the start of the video. I don't think the foam makes too much of a difference and I might even test different materials for better sound quality.

Among other things I also need to glue another magnet or two as I've knocked the magnet under the stomach out of place.

Happy listening

- JamJar

 

Sounds good! Great work! But what else can you expected from a civil engineer?

 

Has to be one of the single greatest additions to a model I've ever seen, can't wait till its all painted up and battle ready - you're gonna be the talking point of your local store or game sessions wherever you take this bad ass model

 

I can tell you if I had graduated in mechatronics I'd probably make the carno run off its base and eat other models
I really should incorporate some civil engineering stuff seeing as it's unusual for us to dabble in the field of electronics.

I have been trying a carno lead army recently. Still, I am only part of the way through this project but it will be a centrepiece once complete. I will provide plently of pictures during battle

 

G'day everyone.

Sorry I havent been on the last few months, things have been crazy at home and I had my carno boxed away and have only just got it back out again.

I haven't made too much progress with the base but have been thinking of an idea or two. The hard part is finding a sturdy, thin, hollow thingamabob to slot the module inside, and for the carnosaur to stand on. The thingamabob, eg a hollow box, could possibly then be covered in green stuff to make it look like a rock/cliff. Example sketch below:



I've also placed the main circuit and batteries circuit back to back and secured then with cable ties. This makes it easier to remove from the thingamabob for future mainentance but doubles the height, and so the thingamabob will need to be quite high (originally I wanted as little height on the base as possible with the batteries hidden elsewhere).

I'll wonder over to the hardware store tomorrow in search of some materials such as a 1mm thick bracket or sheet metal to bend. It must be study enough to hold the carnosaur and prevent any wobbling/bending/collapsing. The thingamabob will need to allow for a 70mm long x 36mm wide x 19mm high void for the module to fit.

Things should get slightly easier from then.

 

Welcome back.


The carno plans look interesting. Nice drawing!

 

Welcome back, as to a study box i suggest getting yourself some 5mm thick hard foam board and make a container. that's what i used for a platform its really sturdy.

 

stick the voice box on the base and cover it with a faux rock so its easy to get at if it fails etc

 

That sketch is awesome, fyi

 

I had a look around yesterday. The problem I found was that there aren't a lot of boxes small enough to fit on the 100x50mm base while being able to house the module. Because I want it to take up as little room as possible, I'd like minimal thickness for the box. In the end I went to the hardware and grabbed a couple of these to play with:


The 1mm metal should be more than enough to provide stability with the model on top. If I had a much larger base I definitely could have used a wooden or cardboard material.

I drew up the plan and got cutting...


...and hammering...


...and voila!


Here she is in the box:


Carnosaur on the box:

I'd like to cover the box with some sort of textured paint or foam to give a rocky effect. I just haven't used anything like it yet


The box looks quite square and I'm wondering how much I can disguise it as a rock. What does everyone think?

 

Guess you could easily make some round edges by glueing stuff to the sides of the box and cut it in shape... maybe the stuff @Warden uses for his terrain? Or use some polymeric clay...
Should also be no problem to give the upper surface of the box some kind of structure...

 

I read "two hours later" in the narrators voice

 

So for the past five weekends I've been telling myself that I'd clean my desk and vacuum my floor, but then I noticed my carnosaur sitting on my shelf and thought, "Bah! This room can wait 'til next week"

I ended up getting some textured paint/paste to try out. The Vellejo paste goes quite rubbery when it sets, but the Tamiya paint dries harder, which I think I'll end up using.

I also found that the metal box I made didn't have enough space to easily house the module and wires (which would be curled into a loop to allow the module to be pulled out while still attached to the model).



Luckily I had a whole spare bracket-sheet-thingy. Here it is overlapping the previous one to show how much larger it is:

Not too much room on the sides to work with, but we'll see what we can do.

Model glued onto the metal "box":

Because I don't trust super glue, I pinned three spots through the foot and metal for additional support. I drilled 1mm holes, the pins were made from paperclips and were bent so they don't slip out of the metal. I didn't happen to take any photos of all this as I was in such a roll marking the holes and working the pedestal drill.

Hole drilled for new push button; module attached to carnosaur (speaker):

This part probably took the longest over the weekend because the next step was finding out how the module and wires would fit inside the base. This meant snipping the red & black wires to length so they can curl into a loop when I push the module inside, but not stick out - all while testing if the module still roars. It seems easier than that, I just spent weeks wondering if it will work with no problems.

I then drilled (which I should have done before gluing the dang model) a hole for the push button terminals. Starting off with the 1mm bit (which ended up snapping ) I worked my way up to allow for plenty of room for the terminals to fit through. I cannot tell you how many times the drill bits caught on the metal and nearly ripped the entire model out of my hands

Wires through hole and prepped for soldering to push button:

What a messy desk
Wires soldered to push button and ready for heat shrink to insulate it:


Push button glued in place:

I'm so glad all the electrical fuss is over. Now to concentrate on the actual model.

Backing for the base:

This was done by running some magnets down the inside of the box and gluing them in place.

Next steps are to cover up all those holes, then use some balsa wood to form some sort of stepped rock-like features before I use the textured paint.

Thanks for waiting. Hopefully I get some more progress done next wekeend.

 

On the weekend I ran a test on the old metal doobywacker with the Tamiya textured paint and Vallejo textured paste.

First I snapped some pieces off a balsa wood plank, then stacked & glued them in place. Irregular pieces worked nicely to form the cliff face:


Using the Tamiya paint:


and more paint:


and even more:

Despite using only using my trusty hobby knife, I found the paint easy to work with. The similar to putty, the paint is able to be worked into shape.

I also tried the paste... but we don't speak of that


Anyway, there's the paint before spray painting it:




=

Liking the textured paint. Now to test on the actual model. See you guys in a few years probably.