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Blog Joshua's Paint Blog - Back from the dead!

Glad have you back, good stuff there!
I especially like the Skink. :)

Seems you picked up the airbrush techniques pretty quickly.

For me the airbrush venture has basically failed, my results look horrible.
I might try again this summer though.
 
Aginor said:
Glad have you back, good stuff there!
I especially like the Skink. :)

Seems you picked up the airbrush techniques pretty quickly.

For me the airbrush venture has basically failed, my results look horrible.
I might try again this summer though.
Click to expand...

How come?

It's all in the trigger finger and not using too much psi
 
Crowsfoot said:
How come?

It's all in the trigger finger and not using too much psi
Click to expand...
I honestly have no clue.
I tried thicker paint, thinner paint, more pressure, less pressure, nozzle cap on, nozzle cap off.
For priming it is OK (although it takes four times the amount of work and time compared to a rattle can) but for everything else it took me more time to repair all the damage I did using it than it would have taken if I had just painted it with the brush.
Really depressing because it seems I am the only idiot who cannot use an airbrush.
 
Aginor said:
I honestly have no clue.
I tried thicker paint, thinner paint, more pressure, less pressure, nozzle cap on, nozzle cap off.
For priming it is OK (although it takes four times the amount of work and time compared to a rattle can) but for everything else it took me more time to repair all the damage I did using it than it would have taken if I had just painted it with the brush.
Really depressing because it seems I am the only idiot who cannot use an airbrush.
Click to expand...

We can solve the problems, I don't want to derail @Joshua Horchler blog.

Stick something in your blog and will try and help there. ;)
 
I bought an Iwata Eclipse. I wanted something that came with a needle that could do some detail but still handle some bigger Dinos. I have learned a lot in a sort time, mostly through failures.

The biggest thing for me to learn was how to keep it clean, keeping the nozzle clear, and how to thin my paint. I have a ton of GW paint and they are so expensive that I didn't want to buy a ton of Air paint. It took me awhile to figure out how to thin it properly. I love my airbrush. It's given me a lot of new energy and I was able to lay down a solid base coat in my skinks in like half the time, maybe more.

I did the shields so freaking fast and before I would have to wetblend, layer or two brush blend and it took forever.
 
I moved to an area with an actual gaming store so I have a lot of motivation to build and paint right now because I can actually play again. I'm working on painting my Seraphon up and then also starting a Blades of Khorne army. Hopefully I'll stay committed and I'll share my progress!
 
I have the Iwata Eclipse, once you get used to it it's really easy to clean.

To thin the paints what are you using?
 
The Iwata is great. I had a bad purchase with my first compressor and I had to send it back. Luckily i got a full refund.

For GW paints I use almost all water and then a few drops of Flow Improver. I was using just water but I've really enjoyed my results with a little flow improver. I use a stronger flow improver to water ratio for my grey/white paints.
 
Joshua Horchler said:
The Iwata is great. I had a bad purchase with my first compressor and I had to send it back. Luckily i got a full refund.

For GW paints I use almost all water and then a few drops of Flow Improver. I was using just water but I've really enjoyed my results with a little flow improver. I use a stronger flow improver to water ratio for my grey/white paints.
Click to expand...

I don't use water as it tends to separate the paint, I use window cleaner and 2 drops of flow improver.
 
I haven't had any issues but I'll keep that in mind. I tend to work with little amounts of paint in the feed. I guess if I was working on a big batch and loaded it up with paint, maybe that would be more an issue.
 
Did a quick test model and I've decided to do a bone colored Khorne army. The Bleeding Skull Tribe. All mortals. The below is just a test model, base color, bronze and a quick tint of AK Interactives Rust Streaks. I put too much blood in the eyes, but you get the idea.
20190416_212107.jpg
 
Looking for advice on how to paint "fleshy" red skin for rippers. I dont want it to be orange but I want it to look organic.

I was think doing some orangish/flesh highlights then glazing some red over it.


Maybe the master @Itepixcauh can help me out but I'm open to all suggestions.
 
Joshua Horchler said:
Looking for advice on how to paint "fleshy" red skin for rippers. I dont want it to be orange but I want it to look organic.

I was think doing some orangish/flesh highlights then glazing some red over it.


Maybe the master @Itepixcauh can help me out but I'm open to all suggestions.
Click to expand...

Now that you mention it....


Several options from there to suit your requirements:

- Skip the Bloodletter glaze for a more desaturated look
- start from wild Rider red and highlight up to kislev flesh for a more fleshy look

Hope that helps
 
Itepixcauh said:
Now that you mention it....


Several options from there to suit your requirements:

- Skip the Bloodletter glaze for a more desaturated look
- start from wild Rider red and highlight up to kislev flesh for a more fleshy look

Hope that helps
Click to expand...

So you don't think highlighting red with an organish/fleshy color is stupid? For some reason I feel like someone told me to not highlight red with orangish colors.
 
Joshua Horchler said:
So you don't think highlighting red with an organish/fleshy color is stupid? For some reason I feel like someone told me to not highlight red with orangish colors.
Click to expand...

As you see in my video, no i don't think that at all. In fact I HATE highlighting red with pink or white as white (or pink for that regard as that is just red + white) will completely desaturate the red giving a horrible look that usually reads as dark pink rather than red. I usually do Wild Rider Red + Fire Dragon Bright if I want a very intense hot red or do a flesh tone as in the video for a more realistic red. You want some yellow in the highlights (not much), that is why flesh tone in moderation works very well (Fleshtone is just orange + white)

The problem with red is the same as with black, to be read as RED most of the area must be different shades of red with the highlights very subtle, edge highlighting works very well with reds for that regard as does with black.
 
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